On The Road Again

I had a few things planned on Friday but they fell through because, paradoxically, I was working longer despite booking half-day vacations. The first item scratched off was a second community class at Yogaspace because I simply didn't want to eat another late lunch.

There were several boutique shops between Lansdowne and Gladstone. As far as gentrification goes, something other than a café or restaurant was a net positive in my opinion. Yet this stretch of College St. was not lively or gentrified enough to make these stores viable because I have seen mostly failures over the years.

At Gladstone, I decided I didn't want to walk all the way to Spadina for Toronto-style pizza at Fresca. So remove that item from my to-do list. I also wasn't feeling in the mood for a Moroccan tea at Arabesque. Instead I headed up to Bloor for 241 pizza. Previously, there have been encampments at Dufferin Grove Park. The first occurrence was a cluster of tents in the field across from the outdoor rink. Then during the pandemic, several were set up by Indigenous folks next to the campfire to protest the discovery of mass graves at residential schools. There were none during my visit in June but they have returned. This time, they were spread apart, covering almost the entire tree-lined slope opposite Dufferin Mall. I wondered how the local residents felt about losing 1/3 of the park.

In the evening, I headed East again from my rental to Symington and Bloor. This crossing, essentially 2 3-way intersections side-by-side, was notorious for confusing drivers. During the brief time that I passed by on my way to Taqueria Vegana, several cars were "stuck" in no-man's land, enduring a flurry of honking from more experienced motorists. There were several restaurants right at that intersection that could provide me with an entertaining view of the chaos.

I had a good feeling stepping inside Thai Nyyom. First, all the staff spoke Thai to each other. Second, the menu on the chalkboard was only a handful of regular items plus one daily special. I ordered Khao Soi Chicken ($15.04) and Thai Iced Tea ($5.31). The drink was excellent and as a bonus, not as sweet as other places. As for the Khao Soi, it was also wonderful. The broth was flavourful with a slight kick and the chicken fell apart in your mouth. The crunchy topping provided a nice textural contrast. The only problem was that now that I've had the spaghetti version known as Khaose, Khao Soi simply wasn't quite as great a dish. Al dente pasta was a better base than soft rice noodles.

I had an early evening because my bus back to Ottawa was at 7 am. When I got to the terminal Saturday morning, I realized my mistake. Apparently, Rider Express was successful enough to now expand to several daily trips between Ottawa and Toronto. This early one was not a direct route but a "local" detour that went through several small towns include Marnora and Madoc. My last such ride, with the defunct Greyhound company some 20 years ago, took almost 8 hours. Luckily, this one was not on a full bus during winter so it was only 45 minutes longer than my usual 5-hour ride. But I'll have to pay attention to the full itinerary the next time I book online.

Playing For Time

The weather turned nippy on Thursday, but it was still pleasant enough with periods of sunshine and blue sky. So I was out and about several times. I walked down the street to get a blueberry muffin ($3) and a croissant ($3.75) from Blue Collar Bakery. Perhaps the name was a nod to the previous tenant called That Dog Next Door. I had purchased some Christmas gifts from that pet store. Otherwise referencing a working-class label while selling bread for $8-12 is funny. Still, like ibet Sushi, Blue Collar is the first of its kind in Bloordale. My breakfast items were tasty but not a destination visit. I also finished off my momos because I was planning to have a late lunch.

After another half-day of work, I went to Little Italy for a 1:30 pm community class at Yogaspace. With classes now topping $30+ at most studios, an $8 practice was more affordable. The potential downside was that community classes are led by recent graduates. I've had some poor instructors, but only because there isn't much time in a 200-hour training session to become comfortable at teaching. But the one today must have had experience with public speaking because they were clear and at ease.

Lunch was a rewarding vegetarian plate ($14.99) from Laziza. I've long extolled the food-cost ratio from here but I have never actually snapped a photo of the meal. Amazing that this large portion used to be $8.99. With the late lunch, two small potato curry roti ($3.70) from Dosa Mahal was enough for dinner.

Then it was off to The Burdock for a concert. The small venue was sold-out but it was all friends and family. I never liked such a show because you can't gauge a performer's true stage presence. Would they be equally effective in the presence of an indifferent crowd? The audience skewed much older tonight but it wasn't in support of a talented child. Both bands were comprised of older musicians as well.

Mature songwriters are interesting in that they can be dated musically but their songs cover a larger slice of life. Even better if their oeuvre remained vital and dynamic. But I wasn't moved emotionally at tonight's show. During sets by Andie Loren and Set Feux (Diana Planche), as I listened to their rhymes and topics (typical love songs), I kept getting flashback to Top 40 90s radio with Paula Cole and Amanda Marshall. The backing bands were proficient but also had a dad-jammin-with-his-buddies vibe.

On my way back to the rental, I realized that the Bloordale might be more happening than Bloorcourt. The bars and restaurants were still going strong whereas by this time, the stretch from Dufferin to Ossington would be mostly empty. With trash pickup on Friday, the businesses have put out their garbage. When I saw what was on the sidewalk, I laughed in delight.

I'm constantly flabbergasted that the mediocre Italian diner Sugo was so popular going on a decade. There were better options in the area. My only time there, I stated that it was about the same as supermarket pasta. So I felt vindicated tonight when I saw large bags filled with empty De Cecco boxes outside their door. Sure, I use De Cecco at home and maybe so do Italian nonnas (Sugo's inspiration). But as a restaurant, if you don't make pasta in-house, at least source it from a local producer even if it's not a high-end one.

A Whole New World

Early Wednesday morning, I went to Uncle Sid's Deli for a breakfast wrap ($7.25). As I enjoyed my food on Bloor St, I watched the morning rush. It was clear that despite millions of daily public transit trips, close to 75% of Toronto commuters drive. Yet I dislike drivers here less than Ottawa because they weren't oblivious and dangerous behind the wheel. I observed the smooth give-and-take with bikers, pedestrians, and other vehicles. Though there were separated bike lines, cyclists still needed to merge in from the side streets. And ditto all the cars coming and going from these residential roads. Whether at intersections, flashing crosswalks, or simply a random location on the street, adult commuters and teenage students were everywhere. All this hubbub kept drivers alert and diligent.

After working my half-day, I headed out to meet a friend for lunch. As I exited my unit, I ran into the owner of the rentals. I've been on the fence about the social impact of AirBnB. With their embrace of the "free-market" against regulations and government oversight, I realized we hold different world-views.

I met up with my friend at Ethio Natural Coffee (formerly Techniques Hair Salon) for some bean-based Ethiopian foul. They have had some health issues recently but problems have compounded. Two years back they were sideswiped by a car. Then just a month ago, they were a passenger in a car that was hit by a stolen vehicle. My friend was currently taking prescription pain killers for her shoulders and lower back.

The good news was that in August, their brother had finally immigrated from Addis Ababa after 5 years of sponsorship, delayed by the Syrian refugee crisis and then Covid pandemic. He was currently enrolled in ESL classes. But afterwards, they were hopeful that his years of carpentry experience will be a sought-after skill in the workforce.

In the evening, I set out east along Bloor then north via Perth to a small strip mall in The Junction Triangle. Two taco places have set up shop across from each other. I was interested in the plant-based Taqueria Vegena and ordered a chorizo trio for $19.99. The tacos were delicious: fragrant shell, smokey potatoes, sweetly caramelized fried onions, and a house-made "chorizo" that had a convincing grilled texture. It was on par with the meat tacos from El Pastorcito. In fact, the double-layer corn shells was superior.

But Vegena's tacos were $2 more than most other places though 85% of the flavour came from cheap ingredients. If the cost came from the vegan chorizo, I'd be happy with mushrooms, rapini, or some other earthy substitute. Otherwise $25 (tax + tip) for 3 tacos is too steep for a regular dining spot.

Fan Duel

Since the forecast called for balmy weather, I took a half-day off work. After my remote meeting wrapped up, I headed over to Momo Heart to get some dumplings to complement my leftover Jamaican rice and peas. With a small business, I'm always leery of seeing new faces. It usually means the regular staff has left. So I wasn't surprised when my spinach and paneer momos ($9.99) were tougher and more rubbery this time round. Also, I was expecting Indian-style creamy palak paneer, not bland chopped spinach filling. If I was still living in Toronto, I'd give Heart another chance. But as a traveller, there are too many other spots to visit.

I made a big circuit to Christie Pits park, then doubling back and down Dovercourt, to finally returning to my stay along College St. The walk started at my dentist who was once again both thorough but suspiciously expensive. There are always new storefronts but the most surprising were several new Ethiopian cafés and another outpost of Latin World. One, I thought the Ethiopian hub had moved to Greenwood and Danforth. Two, how can this bodega owner operate 3 storefronts: two of which are kitty corner to each other near Lansdowne?

Speaking of Lansdowne, with condo development imminent, Value Village has relocated to 772 Dovercourt Rd. I didn't need any thrifted items, but I was curious to see in the inside of the former Canada Post depot (then office for unscripted television producer Proper TV). It was mildly depressing: crammed with clothes, with no change rooms, and fully self-checkout.

For dinner, I came to ibet Sushi, the first of its kind in Bloordale. In contrast, Bloorcourt has had many sushi spots come and go. Its predecessor, Brock Sandwich, had a decent 8-year run. I wasn't a regular because deep-fried meat was too heavy for me. When I sat down, the place felt familiar: Korean chef and staff, easy-listening Jazz in the background, and a menu of sushi, udon, and other dishes. I later found out they were once a partner at Mazz Sushi (now taqueria) at Dovercourt. I had many lunches and dinner at that old spot.

I ordered Agedashi Tofu ($5) and a sushi combo ($18.50). The tofu appetizer came in a bowl of tempura sauce. This went nicely with the soft inside, but the outer shell was soaking up too much salty liquid. I had to remove them, also being careful not to spill the nori seaweed and bonito flakes.

I was initially disappointed when the 8-piece sushi had 4 pieces of salmon. But the salmon slices were generous and reasonably flavourful for a middling joint. It can be worse. The other fish selection were also tasty. The 8-piece dynamite roll wasn't particular a noteworthy example of its kind and simply served to fill me up. The place was full by the time I finished my meal. Clearly, the people of Bloordale has been waiting for a sushi joint, with Roll and Bowl not being a strong enough contender.

West Side Story

My last trip to Toronto was a mixed bag. I was starting to think that the fun of Toronto was living there, not just short visits. Otherwise, there were a dozen other places to travel to. But as my bus was pulling into the city on Monday, I felt my old excitement returned.

So it seems my ennui was partly due to illness and the cool weather. This time round, with a final gasp of summer weather in the air and no hacking cough, arriving in Toronto felt great. Before I headed to my short-term rental on St. Helens, I sat basking in the sun people-watching. Despite the rising rents, there seemed to be more young people than ever enjoying big-city living in Bloordale. Speaking of increasing costs, my desire for fresh juice from Galaxy T&T was doused when I saw the average drink was now more than $10.

During my first visit here, I had sneaked into all the other rental units so I already knew I was in a charming one-bedroom. But there were two minor faults. First, I'm still not loving the landlord keeping all these units for travellers instead of being for locals. Some of those youngsters would be thrilled to have this place (at a reasonable rent). Two, from dirty shower curtains to stained fridge, I'm also still flabbergasted that these places weren't cleaner considering how much money they generate.

I did a quick run to Dufferin Mall to buy several items. The condos at the intersection were going up at a mad pace. Even though unfinished, they were already dominating the neighbourhood. Dinner was a visit back to 9 Mile for some Jerk Chicken ($13.99). Their sauce and slaw were too sweet the first time round but it was a better balance now. As I savoured the smoky chicken with the tender rice, I realized that despite my praise of Royal Prince a few weeks back, it doesn't compare to the quality in Toronto. The crazy thing was that 9 Mile still didn't have many customers.

In the evening, I walked along Little Portugal to get to The Garrison. Bleary-Eyed, the opener band from Philadelphia, played a fuzzy indie sound that combined computer samples and sludgy guitars. This wasn't a sound that translated well at this venue, known (in my opinion) for a poor live mix. But headliner Hello Mary was outstanding. This 3-piece all-women outfit from NYC played complex but fun music. They kept my interest by layering pure harmonies, intricate chords, and polyrhythmic drumming. But Hello Mary didn't sacrificed melody and song-craft for experimentation, the tunes were tight and pulsating. Most people paid attention to the playing of Wave (drums, vocals) and Straight (guitar, vocals). But behind Oppenheimer's dreamy gaze and dimpled smile, a slithering bass provided a driving pulse that pushed the songs forward.

Next time round, Hello Mary is playing at a bigger venue. So I got my souvenir band t-shirt even though $40 was a bit steep (blame the Canadian-US exchange rate). I won't have a chance to see them up-close and personal again.

Every Little Thing She Does Is Magic

As an exercise, I filled out my October calendar as if I was still in Toronto. From Marie Goudy's album release with new band Paloma Sky on the 2nd to The Warning (Mexican hard-rock) show at The Danforth on the 30th, my month would be chock-a-block with events. But in Ottawa, I only had a choice of 2 concerts on Thursday, both at the NAC. Although I appreciated Begonia's big voice, it has been a long time since I saw Kelly McMichael with a full band. Since she moved to the East Coast more than a decade ago, McMichael usually does solo shows in Ontario.

The first 4 numbers highlighted that she was fine on her own. With a deft hand on guitar and piano and an assured voice, McMichael delighted with songs about college crush (She Makes Men), connections (Good Friends), the typically male fantasy of "leaving it all" (Nature Man), and delusional thinking (You Got It Wrong). That last tune was a preview that, on the new album After The Sting Of It, she was revisiting her pop and indie-rock days.

Her band consisted of fellow East Coaster John Moran but also locals including Geordie Gordon (The Magic). The reality of touring as a small artist meant you need a Newfoundland band and an Ontario band. McMichael promised a "rock-and-roll" portion and they delivered with Bomb, Dreamer, Montreal and Tour From Hell.

Her last album was long-listed for the Polaris Prize and Bomb made it to number 6 on the indie charts. But it was still a small audience for the show: a respectable crowd at a small venue like The Dakota or Burdock in Toronto but seemed tiny inside the larger Fourth Stage studio at the NAC. On the other hand, McMichael got to encore on a baby grand ("I'm obsessed with this piano") with a wonderful cover of Bonnie Raitt's Nick Of Time.

Royal Walkabout

A while back I wandered through a bit of Vanier for a smoked meat sandwich. On Saturday, I decided that the sunny but mild September day merited a second visit to the area. This time, I headed West along Côté while staying off McArthur and Montreal to avoid traffic noise. The older, modest homes along small streets like Richelieu and Lajoie reminded me of some Toronto neighbourhoods. Gentrification was creeping in here and there in the form of new houses that were typically boxy, square builds with large windows. It was amusing to run across Jean Talon and Dundas which were nothing like their counterpart elsewhere. The worst part of the walk was when I was briefly on McArthur and crossing the highway-in-all-but-name Vanier Parkway. I'm not sure who would buy a new condo at this busy intersection.

I quickly ducked into a side street on the other side. This block all the way to Montreal road was undergoing major intensification. Perhaps this primed my bias but the folks dropping off or picking up their kids at the Mauril Belanger school on Montgomery didn't feel like the old working-class Vanier. Whatever Saturday program was offered here seem geared to a different social strata.

I wanted some Ethiopian from Habesha but the restaurant wasn't open. So I stepped inside Royal Prince just a block away. Since Ottawa has a large French-speaking minority, most Caribbean restaurants here were Haitian instead of Jamaican. Nevertheless, Prince also offered some Jamaican dishes like Jerk Chicken. I don't know if these were any good because they weren't yet ready for lunch. On the recommendation of the owner/chef, I opted for a curry goat entrée ($15.99).

This was a tasty and reasonably substantial meal. The meat was very tender (I barely had to chew) with just a hint of spiciness. The rice and peas were slightly dry but a sprinkling of the curry sauce made all the difference. The mac and cheese was an odd side but still good. They forgot the plaintain and pikliz (pickle vegetable) for my order though. Overall, Royal Prince is the best Caribbean joint I've visited in Ottawa.