San Diss

I haven't gone to Gus Taco since it moved onto Bloor St., though I was a frequent visitor during the pandemic to their Gladstone and Shanly location. From hidden gem to a main thoroughfare, they have expanded their customer base. But with the white-tile counter, narrow bar-top, and high metal stools, it didn't feel inviting. Passing by their old spot, I noticed that it was still selling Mexican food (tortas and breakfast burritos) as San Wich.

They have expanded the counter space with red brick layout that gave a sun-baked vibe. That didn't leave much room except for two park benches to wait for your order. To be fair, this has always been a take-out, except for a few tables on the small patio in the summer. Since I had skipped breakfast on Saturday to clean my kitchen and bathroom, I ordered a larger lunch. At first, I debated if I should get the Milenesa (to compare with Masa's). I settled on an adobo pork torta ($13) and some fries ($7). It was a disappointing lunch.

First, the fries were your average thick-cut pub fries. They were crispier than some places, but overall I would rather have masala fries. When I unwrapped the sandwich, it was already messy. There's a laziness in that kind of attitude (after we wrap it, we don't care if you struggle to eat it), but it did explain the pile of paper napkins in my to-go bag. The messiness reminded of California Sandwiches but was it worth the hassle? No because despite the avocado, the onions, adobo sauce, it was a rather bland affair. Mostly it was the lack of flavour from the pork slices. I was expecting juicy and soft (like pulled pork or filipino adobo chicken) but it was dry. With $26 (tax and tip), I should have gone with my first choice: a full thali platter ($17.99) from Banjara. It's crazy that San Wich was also owned by the Gus Tacos folks because of the quality difference.

Lily of the Valley

It was warm enough Friday night that I could walk to The Baby G, a distance of about 2.5 km from my sublet. The stretch on College between Dovercourt and Havelock were lively with diners at Gonzo Izakaya (Levetto, Hadley's), Giuletta (Bestellen), Lardo (Prairie Boy Bread) but also event spaces like Society Clubhouse where Octopus Garden yoga studio and vegan spot Urban Herbivore used to share space.

Unlike The Monarch show on Thursday, bands took their time to get going not just with their set but also their songs. Catholic Wilt (Jesse James Laderoute) was a duo tonight, trading songs that were slow and atmospheric. I liked Laderoute in his upper register but I was zoning out for the most part. I haven't seen Isla Craig since 2019 (though she was often in the crowd at shows). Her new material since The Becoming still carried that meditative pulse, enlivened by little guitar riffs. She admitted that she has only been playing acoustic guitar as of late, but the crowd was appreciative of her deft playing on her electric.

Anna (Beams, Ace of Wands), through a chance meeting with U.S. producer Kevin S. McMahon, started a collaboration on some of her songs that weren't a fit for the her current bands. Another impetus was her pregnancy. McMahon then brought in a friend, film-maker and musician Daniel Liss and The Cross Sea was formed. The studio recordings were intricate enough that for their album release, they recruited several others to play live. From New York came McMahon, Liss, and Chris Robertson (Elk City). Local musicians were Lee Rose (Ace of Wands' lead singer), Anna's brother Mike, and Heather Mazhar (Beams).

Their set woke me up. As a (currently) one-off, it ranged from sweet folk with banjo, to some multi-vocal pop, to a heavy number like Alien. Some of the lyrics were a bit banal and on the nose but the arrangements were layered and interesting. Given the logistics, I doubt if this "band" would ever tour so it was special to see it live ($20) in Anna's hometown of Toronto.

Stack Overflow

Another snowstorm came through Toronto on Wednesday. But instead of fluffy flakes, it started overnight as freezing rain, then became wet packed snow throughout the day. I did not see my diligent neighbour shovelling the front walks so I decided it was my turn. But my friend's shovel stored in the backyard was frozen to the downspout and encased in ice. Later in the evening, he came around to clear out the snow.

By Thursday morning, the snow had turned to slush. So it was a trek to get groceries at Dufferin Mall from dodging puddles to squishing through drifts. I didn't want to fight through that muddy mess later on so instead took transit to The Monarch Tavern that night. The 3 bands on the bill played all new music for the show ($20).

I had skipped out on Emily Steinwall at her concert on Geary Ave. Later I listened to her debut album and realized she was the real deal. But if those songs were somewhere between world music and jazz ballads, her new numbers channeled 70s psychedelic rock and Guns N' Roses circa Use Your Illusion with less bombast. To be fair, it has been 2 years since that concert and 5 years since she released Welcome To The Garden. The new songs were twice as long as most pop tunes. But I found them musically interesting and dynamic. The topics were a bit heavy-going with titles like No One Ever Win The War or We Are The Same, an intense piece about unresolved anger for someone who treated you badly but has died. Steinwall had a big voice that she used judiciously. I would love to see her more often than every couple of years.

The second band also didn't do any songs from their album except for I Don't Wanna Get Over You. This was a slight disappointment since Deanna Petcoff's release contained several gems that were either punchy or sweet. But her new material was also quite good ending with a banger tentatively titled I Buy A Fake Houseplant To Keep Me Company. This was my first concert with Petcoff though we have crossed paths briefly through the years.

Stacks only had new music since this band was still working toward their 1st release. I didn't want to stay out late but did hear 2.5 songs from their set. With non-pop scales and ululating tones from Carolina Lopez, they were musically closer to Steinwall. It sounded fresh compared to other new bands that I've heard recently. Overall, though there was a good-sized crowd, this was a great show that deserved a larger audience.

Pho Better Or Pho Horse

Several members of my family were born in the Year of the Horse. But none were close by to celebrate this Lunar New Year. I have attended a few Tet celebrations downtown, but most took place in event centres out by the airport. There was one at Artscape on Monday, but I wasn't sure about it because I had never heard of the promoter. It wasn't the usual set-up by the community newspaper with local sponsors.

So I decided to go to Pho Linh for a bowl of pho instead. Prices have increased since back in the day and my order of a large was $16. Overall, the portion was good, broth was fragrant, and there was plenty of beef and sides like basil and bean sprouts. My only nitpick was that the noodles were a tad too soft. But compared to cheaper options like a Szechuan noodle bowl, it was pricey at $20 (tax + tip). Linh should put back on the menu a small at a good value like, say, $12. They wouldn't necessarily lose money either since folks like myself might get a $4 spring roll or fresh roll (which used to be 2 for $3) as appetizer. Because I wasn't going to get one and push my lunch over $25.

I have been going to this OG restaurant at College and Dufferin for decades. With these (formerly) regular haunts, you have been there enough to remember the staff, but not so often that the passage of time was smoothed over. In other words, I was shocked to see some people passing into "respected elder" (or at least uncle and auntie) status. It was similar to seeing myself in a full-length mirror and asking: when did I get old?