West Side Story

My last trip to Toronto was a mixed bag. I was starting to think that the fun of Toronto was living there, not just short visits. Otherwise, there were a dozen other places to travel to. But as my bus was pulling into the city on Monday, I felt my old excitement returned.

So it seems my ennui was partly due to illness and the cool weather. This time round, with a final gasp of summer weather in the air and no hacking cough, arriving in Toronto felt great. Before I headed to my short-term rental on St. Helens, I sat basking in the sun people-watching. Despite the rising rents, there seemed to be more young people than ever enjoying big-city living in Bloordale. Speaking of increasing costs, my desire for fresh juice from Galaxy T&T was doused when I saw the average drink was now more than $10.

During my first visit here, I had sneaked into all the other rental units so I already knew I was in a charming one-bedroom. But there were two minor faults. First, I'm still not loving the landlord keeping all these units for travellers instead of being for locals. Some of those youngsters would be thrilled to have this place (at a reasonable rent). Two, from dirty shower curtains to stained fridge, I'm also still flabbergasted that these places weren't cleaner considering how much money they generate.

I did a quick run to Dufferin Mall to buy several items. The condos at the intersection were going up at a mad pace. Even though unfinished, they were already dominating the neighbourhood. Dinner was a visit back to 9 Mile for some Jerk Chicken ($13.99). Their sauce and slaw were too sweet the first time round but it was a better balance now. As I savoured the smoky chicken with the tender rice, I realized that despite my praise of Royal Prince a few weeks back, it doesn't compare to the quality in Toronto. The crazy thing was that 9 Mile still didn't have many customers.

In the evening, I walked along Little Portugal to get to The Garrison. Bleary-Eyed, the opener band from Philadelphia, played a fuzzy indie sound that combined computer samples and sludgy guitars. This wasn't a sound that translated well at this venue, known (in my opinion) for a poor live mix. But headliner Hello Mary was outstanding. This 3-piece all-women outfit from NYC played complex but fun music. They kept my interest by layering pure harmonies, intricate chords, and polyrhythmic drumming. But Hello Mary didn't sacrificed melody and song-craft for experimentation, the tunes were tight and pulsating. Most people paid attention to the playing of Wave (drums, vocals) and Straight (guitar, vocals). But behind Oppenheimer's dreamy gaze and dimpled smile, a slithering bass provided a driving pulse that pushed the songs forward.

Next time round, Hello Mary is playing at a bigger venue. So I got my souvenir band t-shirt even though $40 was a bit steep (blame the Canadian-US exchange rate). I won't have a chance to see them up-close and personal again.