Traditional Eastern Eurasian Fare

With the sudden passing of Mr. Siddique, I wasn't sure what would happen to Vena's Roti. When a sign went up announcing Uncle Sid's Deli, I was confused. Was this a customer-turned-restauranteur's tribute to his longevity in the neighbourhood or was his South Asian relatives making a pivot?

The new business finally opened this week. On Friday at lunch, I dropped by for my first visit. Yes, the people behind the counter were related to Mr. Siddique but I didn't find out much more than that. They had done a total renovation and the inside looked like a small deli complete with sodas, fancy chips, and jars of sauerkraut and other condiments. The menu was mostly deli-related although there was 1 tribute item: an Uncle Sid omelette. I opted for a corned beef combo ($14.95) with latkes instead of fries. With no dine-in option right now, I hoofed it to MacGregor Playground.

I haven't had a smoked meat sandwich in awhile and this one hit the spot: thin slices, fragrant with just a touch of fat, soft rye bread, and tangy pickle and cole slaw. The latkes resembled more hash browns than the tradition form. As such, although they retained the greasy deep-fried goodness, they lacked the crispy crunch of the latter.

Overall, this was a good replacement to the neighbourhood. Given its shift from immigrant businesses (and their "ethnic" food) to a more gentrified make-up (Brock Sandwich, Sugo, Bar Neon), a deli would fit in well with the new aesthetic.

Curry Loading

On Saturday, while I was waiting for a shop to open at 1 pm, I wandered along Bloor St. looking for a place to have lunch. After I made my way to Bathurst, I doubled back and finally sat at the venerable Banjara for some Indian food. Its owner has done well since his start on Balmuto. Not only has the restaurant expanded with an enclosed patio a few years back, but having their own parking lot means they can add more outdoor tables. He is also the owner of the Madras Masala next-door. For the summer, they have also placed a sugar-cane juice vendor on the sidewalk to tempt passer-bys.

I used to eat here almost every Sunday. But for the sake of my arteries, I reduced these visits to every 3-4 months. Along came the pandemic and I haven't stopped by in two years. The veggie thali ($11.95) was as cheap as ever though the mango lassi ($4.50) has gone up in price. But when I could only finish 40% of my lunch, I realized that my geezer stomach has shrunk (and the thali was never small to begin with either). The downside was that the quality has continued to slide. My new South Asian house-mates were dismissive of Banjara a few months back, and they were right.

On the other hand, South Asian restaurants are still popping up everywhere. Other Asian restaurants, including the once ubiquitous Chinese take-out, have almost disappeared entirely from most Toronto neighbourhoods. But Indian/Pakistani businesses are making a go of it: Namaste in Little Korea, soon-to-open Mumbaikar in Bloorcourt (at the old Idle bar), Thindi Cafe (Maggie's years ago) near Kensington Market, Mumbai Tadka (ex-queer spot Hen House) in Brockton, Samrat and Taza Kabab (once Burgertory) in Little Italy, and Mannat at Ossington and College. Even if they usually fail.

Butter and Flour

Three bakeries are now on my semi-regular rotation: Ba Noi, Bonne Nouvelle, and Barbershop Patisserie. On Saturday, I made the decision to visit all three. So I had pastries all week and my waistline didn't thank me. The first stop at Ba Noi yielded 2 coconut bread buns ($5/each). As a business that still only opens 2 days a week, they sell out most of their popular items one hour in. I thought the coconut filling made the bun a soggy mess. But after a few days in the fridge, the bread was much better. The inside had dried out so that on reheating, the crunchy exterior, soft interior, and the fragrant toasted coconut bits made for a delicious snack.

The latter two stops seemed to have lost some business. A quick conversation confirmed that they were losing people on rainy days (and we've had a few) but on sunny days, people were also skipping off to patios and cottages, too. But food service is a tough business. Bonne Nouvelle does offer many desserts, but I am mostly a croissant buyer. Their flaky offerings were even better after a quick pop in the oven. But I had to make sure not to over-crisp those thin layers.

Barbershop is my weekly go-to spot. This time round, I picked 2 favourites: spiced squash tarte and apple chausson. I also tried two new pastries: strawberry-rhubarb turnover ($4.50) and veggie quiche ($6.75). The tarte and chausson, as usual, didn't disappoint. The turnover was a sophisticated pop-tart with a similar pitfall: too hot filling after reheating! I suffered a small burn on my inner lips after forgetting about that side-effect. The quiche had a nice eggy flavour but I couldn't taste much of the rest. They were tasty but won't crack the top 3.

Still Alive

My plant-based diet means though I love the pastries at Barbershop I only tried their sausage roll the one time. It was tasty but my biased stomach prefers the flakiness of patê sô. Nobody makes this snack as it is a niche food. A general business like Nguyen Huong in Chinatown does carry them, but they are merely edible there. Nothing compare to the tasty ones you can get catered in Montreal.

When I got an Instagram tip that a store near Bathurst and Bloor probably sells authentic versions, I had to check it out. So on Friday, I made my way over to Rustle and Still. It turns out that this Vietnamese coffee house used to be sandwich shop Sky Blue Sky. Outside of its music-related moniker, the previous business didn't tempt me back more than twice over the last decade. From what I can see, this new shop was popular with the locals for its coffee made from specialty Vietnamese beans and iced drinks.

But people were also looking over its small menu of banh mi. I spotted the patê sô sitting in the display case. Its roll shape, instead of the traditional square pastry, threw me as well as its' low price of $2. I also ordered a vegan banh mi ($8.50) and a Vietnamese slaw ($6.50). While waiting for my order, I looked over the space. It had a clean Scandinavian décor vibe combined with some homey touches of welcoming plants. Little Korea isn't known as a coffee hang-out zone but I could see Rustle becoming that neighbourhood spot.

The pastry was only a 2-bite snack but it was good. The meat was fragrant and tasty but in general, it wasn't quite up to snuff for me. What makes a sô is the thickly layered mouth-feel of good puff pastry, everything else is secondary. I enjoyed the tofu banh mi, too. This was actually vegan-friendly with an excellent mushroom/almond pâté substitute. Most banh mi shops might offer a tofu option, but you know it's not really vegan. The only negative is that their pickled condiments were on the sweet side. This seems to be a recent trend including at Komi in Bloorcourt. The slaw was a mix of cabbage, peanuts, and fried shallot with a black pepper vinaigrette dressing. It was a good crunchy salad but I feel missed the point of a Viet slaw. First, unlike tangy Western salads, a Viet slaw tilts in the savoury/umami direction with its fish sauce-based dressing and fresh herbs. Second, it should provide a softer chewiness without being mushy and not the usual experience of grazing on grass.

Originally from Vietnam, the owners came to Toronto as foreign students. I don't know if these changes reflect an evolving palate over there or an adaptation to local tastes here. I don't like it myself but these small nit-picks aside, I enjoyed visiting this place. I would probably love Rustle and Still even more if I was a coffee drinker.

Mai Oh Mai

I like some TallBoyz but have no opinions about other Tall Boys. The former does funny skits while the latter looks like your typical sports/craft bar. Not being a beer drinker, I haven't bother to scope out the place. I also like some pandemic era chef and ambivalent about others. Mostly because they are only available through Instagram and I'm not the type to DM for orders. So when I heard that one of them was doing a modern Vietnamese brunch on week-ends at Tall Boys, I decided to check her out. Although apparently she also cooks at Vit Beo, a tiny business I've walked by many times.

I made the mistake of skipping it for Mama Chef on Saturday. So although Sunday was grey and threatened rain, I came for some take-out. I ordered the Coffee French Toast ($9) and the Turnip Cake Omelet ($10). It did start to drizzle but I found shelter at a picnic table beneath some trees at the Irene Avenue Parkette. Ironically, on a subsequent visit, I found out that Tall Boys' patio backed directly onto this park.

I liked both dishes a lot. The toast had a creamy spread and was coated with mocha sauce and various crunchy toppings. But it was neither too sweet or heavy. The omelet with its scallions, soy glaze, chilies and cilantro was delicious and contemporary but displayed its traditional roots. The pieces of turnip cake added a nice combination of both chewiness and charring. The entrée reminded me of a combination of the popular snack bot chien and a Vietnamese frittata. A second visit to try the breakfast plate of eggs, tofu loaf, black bean hummus, and various pickled sides convinced me that these dishes were a welcome alternative to the usual Toronto brunch. She also does other collaborations like a banh mi pizza. Given how much I enjoy her food, I'd certainly give these experiments a try.

Of Squirrels And Old Men

Being out-of-town for a month, I figured that the local squirrels and birds have stopped visiting my food sites once they were no longer replenished. It would probably take a few weeks before the wildlife will return. So I was surprised that the sparrows came back almost immediately after my restocking. And so did a few squirrels only a few days later. The former have increased in size, sometimes growing to almost 20 birds, and visiting throughout the day. I would think that most of the seeds would be eaten by mid-morning (I limit the amount of daily feed) so I'm not sure what they are still pecking at later on. The squirrels seemed a different set of individuals. They looked like young'uns by their size and skittishness. Prior, it was older ones who weren't nearly as bothered by car noises.

As I watched them eat, I realized that nobody makes automatic bird feeders. I don't mean the sort that dispenses fixed amounts into a tray. But something that sprays feed onto the ground at regular intervals. It's more enjoyable to watch them forage (and probably more natural for the critters) than for them to fight over a few available spots on a typical feeder. Hey, maybe this could be my Shark Tank idea?

It's weird that these urban moochers would be the only reason I'd want to stay in this neighbourhood or even this city. But then that old geezer, with his big bag of unshelled peanuts, who made the daily rounds around the apartment complexes at Bloor and Dovercourt probably felt the same. I haven't seen him in a few years though. I wonder if he has moved away or maybe has gone to the big metropolis in the sky?

Geezerhood means complaining about the cost of things and I do it all the time now. The latest was my visit to Mama Chef on Saturday. It was nice that they had finally put out tables on the sidewalk. But I was wincing at the $29/lunch with tax and tip for the tofu stew ($10.99) and seafood pancakes ($9.99). It was both the price and the kitchen mis-steps: the grittiness of undercooked rice and the doughiness of underfried pancakes. The latter improved immensely when I (re)-pan-fried the leftovers at home to add more charring and crispiness. If I become a cranky skinflint who only eats at home, why bother living in The Big Smoke?

Not Here For A Good Thyme

Friday night, I wandered through several neighbourhoods along College St. The street patios were more numerous and larger than last year with folks out enjoying food and booze. But it didn't seem as full as expected. Then I realized that not only have patios been re-opened for a month while I was in Ottawa (no more initial giddy rush?) but with the extra-long holiday week-end, many people might have headed to cottage getaways.

On Saturday, I continued my roaming to the Junction Triangle area. It started out well, Donna's at Wallace has set up a large patio and the other businesses at that intersection were also bustling. When I reached Farmhouse Tavern from Edwin Ave., I heard the revelry before I even saw its patio.

But the walk Eastward along Dupont wasn't as fun. There were no curbside patios until I reached Defina and few pedestrians were on the street. It wasn't just about a quiet week-end though. The empty storefronts have increased even more than before including a few long-time businesses. Despite the presence of condos, both built and in construction, it was currently a rather desolate street. It might take years before this area becomes interesting enough to visit again. Those condos near Lansdowne don't seem quite as convenient and attractive any more.

I returned to the strip mall at Perth. After some debate, I opted to try Thai Lime instead of Koji Sushi. I got a sinking feeling when the server was South Asian. It's not that only people from a particular culture can cook its food. But often these immigrant-run businesses (like many Chinese-owned sushi places) are usually about jobs and have only basic competency in that cuisine. Nevertheless, I chose the Phad Puk Ruam mixed veggies ($14.99) and some jasmine rice ($1.99).

While waiting for my order, some women came in for the lunch special and had to pay extra. The first was due to the new prices (I dislike out-of-date menus) and the second was an extra charge for take-out. I was taken aback by that weird fee. Usually, you get a discount for take-out or pick-up, not the other way around. Also, we were currently in phase 2 re-opening with no indoor dining. How are you gonna be charging for that when there was no other choice?!

I took my food to Perth Square Park to have my lunch while watching little kids running through the little water fun zone. It had a button that would randomly spray water from various contraptions for a few minutes. This is a good water conservation idea. As for the food, it was an average main with a good mix of veggies. But it wasn't worth $20 though. On the other hand, maybe you're getting old when everything seems much more expensive than you remembered.

From The Ashes

With the train arriving in Toronto past midnight due to the delay, I got home late. I spent a quiet Canada Day decompressing. There was an absence of fireworks in the evening because most people probably agreed with the sentiments of Indigenous Canadians given recent events. All except my neighbour "Tricky Dick". But given that he allegedly acquired 2 properties and the half acre of private green space that was The Rusholme Lawn Bowling Club through "interesting" tactics a few decades ago, it didn't surprise me that he decided to set off fireworks anyway.

On Friday, I walked along Dundas St. W. to see what the patios were like this year. Most restaurants have expanded and some even hired professional installers like Grip Block. It has been months since I had pho so I sat down at Pho Phuong (Phoenix) near Brock St. Back in the day, I was more of a Pho Linh customer, and occasionally ate at Pho Phuong Hoang (Royal Phoenix) or Pho Canh Buom (Ship Sail). This establishment was an upscale Vietnamese place that opened as Dundas was gentrifying. So I figured I'd leave it for the young hipsters who were flocking to the area.

I chose some shrimp fresh rolls ($6.50) and a small bowl of pho ($11.95). As expected, the presentation was prettier than other places. The rolls had a good chew and didn't fall apart. But their decision to use chopped up lettuce and cut back on the mint and chive made them a bit bland. The pho was also good with a fragrant broth and good mix of noodles and beef. I had chosen both rare beef slice and the more tender brisket.

Overall, it was a nice lunch. I was wincing a bit at the final tally (tax + tip) but even hole-in-the-wall Pho Linh wasn't cheap anymore. But I took a small exception to the fact that the prices were slightly higher than on the menu. Even if the front page stated that "prices may change without notice", I'm not a fan of this practice. The 30-35% typical addition to the bill for taxes and tip are already a sore point for me.

Heaven Is A Place In Berth

On Wednesday, I settled in at Tremblay Station waiting for my 3 pm train back to Toronto. It was a nice month-long stay with family but I was excited to get back for patio season in The Big Smoke. With arrival time just before 8 pm, I decided that I'll grab a pizza slice when I get there. Then we heard that the trip will be delayed due to a railway crossing accident. Some people re-scheduled their travel but most of us hung in there hoping for good news. Finally, it was announced that our train will depart at 6:15 pm.

I didn't want to buy an over-priced dinner onboard. With the new LRT, I thought that I could do a quick hop downtown and find better options. In fact, I remembered a sign for a new Poke place a few years back somewhere on Bank St. I found the website for Paradise Poke and ordered a Sweet Heat ($14.85). After a round-trip to pick up my dinner, I was back at the station.

This was an enjoyable rice bowl due to the combination of sweet mango, crunchy cucumber, earthy edamame, and spicy tofu. The fried scallions added some fragrance. I would have replaced the beet with something soft like zucchini or bean sprouts. That sated feeling gave me equanimity when the time was pushed back again to 8.

I wasn't the only one to get take-out. Others had similar thought but they used food delivery services instead. Ultimately, none of us needed those meals. We were mollified that Via Rail was giving us a 100% credit for the next booking due to the delay. But once aboard they also gave us free snacks, drinks, and eventually huge pizza slices. It was perhaps the second-worst pizza I've had; the worst was a cardboard mess from Amato's (pandemic RIP). Something about its mildly warm doughiness was less appetizing than good cold pizza. But folks weren't complaining and some even accepted seconds. Given the goodwill people have for free stuff, I don't know why Via doesn't simply offer complimentary meals for all riders, not just those in business class.