Frightful

Halloween came early this year because I had a Saturday lunch that was horrifying. I always try to enjoy a meal, at least while I'm there even if a place was not compelling enough to revisit. But that wasn't the case at Masalawala, an "Indian canteen" that recently opened in Little Italy.

It started out pleasantly enough: a bright, cheerful place painted with Bollywood Pop-art. The premise was simple: you pick a bowl ($11.99), select your rice, main protein, sauce, and any additional toppings. There were a few side dishes, too. So I opted for ingredients not usually available including brown basmati rice and grilled tofu. The "Belgian white chocolate" samosas ($2.99 for 2) also sounded intriguing.

The rice was chalky and crumbly because it wasn't fully cooked. The tofu was soft and gooey without any fried skin. I would use firm tofu if you're going to grill. The palak sauce had no flavour and the naan was a sad, tough chew. As I grimly ate my lunch, I noted that the same price gets you a delicious, gut-busting (in a good way) thali platter at Banjara just up on Bloor St. In fact, I've eaten Indian TV dinners from No Frills, mass-marketed for the mainstream, that were tastier. The lone bright spot was the combination fried + sweet from those dessert samosas. But they were imported from the U.K. so the owners can't take full credit.

The signs were there, but I had missed them. Despite an open kitchen, there was no smell of simmering spices. The only South Asian worker was the cashier. I don't think you have to be from some region to cook its dishes well, but places like this really test this theory. If you're really in the mood for "quick bites", then go to the suburbs like Scarborough with its plethora of authentic eateries.