Nonna? Nah, Nani

I took another day off on Tuesday but it was also without much activities. In the morning, I was debating whether or not to visit my old laundromat. It would be nice to clean my travel clothes. But I only had shorts and it was still too cold outside. It seemed wasteful to not wash my jeans. Breakfast was leftovers from previous meals: vegan momos and pilaf rice.

Near lunchtime, I walked to Dufferin Mall along College St. Most businesses on that strip have been around for a few years. But it looked like Gula Mexican Bar has replaced Lay Low Brewery. That spot has turned over numerous times including Pho Canh Buom and Me and Mine (one of the first gentrified business). After buying the Deluxe nut mix, I walked through Dufferin Grove. I was surprised there weren't many students on their lunch break. The sun was making things more pleasant so I ate a slice from 241 Pizza while people-watching. I complimented the owner on his craft; this franchise location was better than others and, in my opinion, even the trendier pizzerias. That was when I found out he worked 6 days a week. On the way back to my rental, I stopped off at Dosa Mahal for some curry puffs (5 for $5). I had planned on eating them with leftover Jamaican rice as my last dinner for this trip. But then I changed my mind. 

The lower-level Bsmt 254 venue at Lansdowne and College took over from an old business right at the start of the pandemic. A concert with Nyssa at the new spot was on my radar in 2021 but I was busy planning my move back to Ottawa. So whenever I was back in the neighbourhood, I was always looking for a show there. But since they primarily host dance and DJ nights, I haven't gone yet. When I passed by on my way to see Pomme I noticed a sign for Khaose.

This pinged my radar with its similar sounds to Khao Soi, the Northern Thai beef curry noodle soup. So it turned out that the Khao Soi was originally inspired by a Burmese concoction (ohn no khao swè) and Khawsa (or Khaose) was the Pakistani variant of that same dish. South Asian curry noodle? Oh, the leftover food can wait for another day!

During the day, a couple rented out the kitchen for their delivery service. Originally started out of their home kitchen during the pandemic, they now use this space for takeout and also continue to sell their "street food" at outdoor markets and festivals. I ordered a beef Khawsa ($18) and in a nutshell, it was delicious. The marinated beef was meltingly tender and its tangy sauce reminded me of musuman curry. The spaghetti soaked up the coconut curry and delivered rich toothsomeness. Outside of really good noodles, this was a better sauce-and-pasta combo than typical Italian fare. There was also a lot of texture as the dish came with a large variety of toppings: spring onions, chili flakes, garlic chips, onion crisps, crunchins', and slims.

Coeur de Patate

Monday night, I was at The Phoenix for a concert. This venerable venue had 6 more months before being turned into condos. The ground floor was only at half capacity and I don't think it got more than two-thirds full. Opener Laraw did a set of angry confessionals: the current style of sad songs comprising of quiet, wistful verses and loud refrains. She can reach for that big voice but needed a little more control over it. Her guitarist was a dud for me: the same quiet strumming of reverb-drenched chords on every song. Contrast that with Sunday's show by Chris and Nicole where variety in guitar playing added fullness to an acoustic duo set.

Pomme was a French musician (who also live in Montreal) I found online during the pandemic lock-downs. With my passable high-school French, I thought her lyrics were richly evocative. I suspected a live show was going to be more vibes than poetry. And I was right. My proximity to the stage had a great view, but line array speakers make even solo sets sound muffled. On top of that, a giant fan next to me filled my ears with a constant hum.

Luckily, Claire Pommet had a wide musical arsenal. First and foremost were her voice and guitar. Despite looking like a picture-perfect example of a French gamine with her oversized beret, pixie cut, and slim build, there was no cute, breathy vocals. Her voice often soared to stratospheric heights but also descended to a low, intimate croon. Her guitar playing was excellent, showcasing different techniques to accompany her singing. Several other instruments were also used including an auto-harp and a mini-synthesizer.

Pomme was a congenial performer, regaling us with stories about her music as well as her daily life. She spent the day bicycling around Toronto and enjoying Taro ice-cream. Apparently this treat (7 years on from her first taste) was not available in Quebec nor France? Though more than half the audience knew French, Pomme spoke primarily in English since she wanted to keep improving at it, a legacy from her younger days when she aspired to be an English teacher.

The audience got a great show, especially the francophones. Artists that would fill much larger venues elsewhere play to smaller crowds here. After the "pro forma" encore, which Pomme humorously described as a binding "oral contract" between her and the audience, we got a second one. Ms Pommet came out again when the crowd chants refused to die down. Obviously touched, she did a fully acoustic number, perched on a chair right at the edge of the stage. Pomme's first show in Toronto for her first North American (beyond Quebec) tour was a special one.

No Foodie No Fry

When I travel to Toronto, I am usually remote working. But I took Monday off to avoid the bi-weekly planning meeting. I had no plans for my own leisure time but the overcast sky decided for me: I was staying inside my rental. To be honest, I still lacked the energy to wander around.

In the morning, I walked over to Uncle Sid's Deli. I guess word has gotten around as there were several people waiting for their breakfast orders. The $7.95 special was gone with the cheapest breakfast now going for $11.95. But there were breakfast wraps for $7.25.  Essentially, it was a greasy diner meal but rolled up in a small pita; mine was eggs, sausage, hash brown and cheese. These turned out to be tasty, filling, and surprisingly not messy.

For lunch, I noticed that Saigon Sandwiches at Bloor and Lansdowne has been replaced by Momo Heart. I wasn't surprised that Saigon folded as their take on modern/fusion Viet was poorly executed. I did eat Nepalese momos a few days ago but I am always willing to support a small business. This new Tibetan spot had a simple menu: a variety of momos and some rice dishes. I was pleasantly surprised that there were 3 plant-based options. I chose the vegan momos ($9.99) with the milder Momo Heart sauce and a coleslaw side. With 8 momos to my order, this was a good deal for the price. The freshly steamed dumplings were toothsome and tender. The cabbage, mushroom, and tofu stuffing tasted so familiar to me. Then I remembered that the veggie buns at BauZza BauZza had the same flavour. Sadly, the pandemic killed that Chinese eatery near College and Spadina.

The visit to my dentist still cost me 3 scaling units but at least it took more than 10 minutes. But health-wise, you don't want them to spend so much time cleaning your teeth. Afterward, I walked back to Lansdowne along Bloor. The condo development at Dufferin was at around 6 stories, but they still have dozens to go. I peeked inside Queen of Patties and saw that the proprietress was serving a customer instead of being buried in the back with orders. I grabbed a beef patty ($4.50) for a quick snack. The crust remained deliciously flaky but there was less filling.

After a few months, Island Hot and Spicy has changed owners. 9 Mile also served Jamaican food and despite electronic signage proclaiming long hours (they were open 24/7 Thursday through Saturday!), they didn't seem to have much foot traffic either. I stepped inside for a Jerk Chicken meal ($13.99). Both the rice and chicken were outstanding: moist, flavourful, with just a little kick. This was even better than Island and head-and-shoulders above Jerk King at Bloor and Dufferin. It still baffles me how the latter remain so busy (location, location, location). The only negative was that the slaw and the stew sauce were too sweet. Next time I would ask for less of both items.

That's One Way To Say Goodbye

I left my East-End rental in the morning but I still had a few more days in Toronto. Since the check-in for my West-End rental was at 3 pm, there were several hours to kill. In normal June weather, I'd grab brunch and then relax at Dufferin Grove. I did have some luggage but they weren't bulky so going to the last day of the Do West street festival would also be doable. But with cool wind and rain, I had to be indoors. I ended up at Union Station watching passengers board buses, trains, or heading to the UP Express for the airport.

I had skipped lunch so after dropping off my stuff at the 2nd floor studio, I headed over to Laziza for a veggie plate. At $14.99, it wasn't quite the $8.99 deal a decade ago, but it was still a hefty takeout container full of rice, a variety of fresh greens, fried cauliflower, eggplant, and potatoes. This would normally be two meals but since this was my "linner", I ate the bulk of it. I spent the rest of the afternoon lying in bed. Who knew that just sitting in a busy transport hub could be tiring?

In the evening, I went to The Burdock for a show. Mattie Leon opened the night with songs about loved ones who have passed on (Marigold) and telling people you love them (Father's Wedding Speech). His sweet tone was a good match for the folkie, earnest set. I saw headliner Chris and Nicole in 2019 just before the pandemic. They were releasing their debut EP but also saying goodbye as Nicole was heading off to law school. 5 years later, they were finishing up their first LP and saying goodbye again. This time round, their lead guitarist was packing up his graduate degree and heading out west.

Chris seemed to be the main songwriter and his recent worry included reaching a plateau in his craft (Hunky Dory) after 10 years of writing. Nicole teased him that he was the type of dork who spends New Year's Eve writing songs like Old Friend and Take What You Need, Take What You Want instead of going out. Their voices blended well and the band supported them on numbers that sometimes had a touch of alt-country and sometimes a bluesy feel. For the new songs, they did an homage to power pop (Stay) and a few sing-along numbers.

It was a full crowd that were appreciative and good-natured. That'd be a good sign, but like their show at The Painted Lady, it was all family and friends. So it was hard to gauge the progress of their musical career. Were they building a fan base? It could be that in today's industry, a project like Chris and Nicole can only be a side-gig outside of day jobs as UX designer and lawyer-in-waiting. Hopefully, I'll hear more buzz about them soon instead of in another 5 years.

The Weak-end

Saturday morning was sunny but there was an unseasonal nip to the wind. Along Monarch Park Drive, a neighbourhood garage sale was taking place. It was mostly young families so the main wares were children's items such as toys, clothes, and books. The kids' were selling lemonade, cookies, and freezies. Some older folks laid out decades-old dinnerware and small furniture.

I didn't find anything useful that could fit into my travel bag. The best community yard sale for me is the one along Palmerston Boulevard. First, it was a well-off neighbourhood so there were always unique and catchy items on display. But at the same time, it had (or used to before gentrification) a good number of young renters. So they were always off-loading clothes and other household goods before moving. A decade ago, I got a mini-desktop computer and a 25" LCD monitor for $30. I brought my finds back to Ottawa where this cheap upgrade was perfect for my Mom's needs.

I then walked to Pape and then doubled back to Coxwell. This stretch encompassing Greenwood and Donlands were relatively underdeveloped though some construction was already taking place for a massive development. I was looking for a shawarma joint that could supply me with a veggie/falalel plate. There were none so it was a bianca slice from the Pizzaiolo near my stay.

Lunch actually made me a bit nauseous. Since I also had a concert in the evening, I cocooned myself underneath a blanket for the rest of the afternoon. I was in a semi-conscious state where fragments of dream meant I did occasionally doze off but it never felt like I was ever asleep. Somewhat recovered, but not at 100%, I got a veggie combo ($17) takeout from Ethiopian restaurant Abugida.

But I ended up staying in for a 3rd night. Yes, unlike the other "potential" shows, I had already bought a ticket. I also hadn't seen headliner Allie X since 2019 and opener Maylee Todd since 2017. Torontonians before they moved to L.A. for better opportunities, these musicians held special spots in my heart. A show with the both of them would be a treat. Energy-wise though, I was drained despite my afternoon rest. It was going to rain all night and the thought of getting back after the show while cold and wet was unappealing. Finally, my stomach was grumbling after dinner. It turned out to be a milder case than the episode in Montreal but I usually cancel plans after these intestinal bouts.

Et Tu Bhojan

Friday morning, I went for an early jog through the side streets north of Danforth that I meant to explore last time. I felt strong and healthy though the feeling didn't last through the rest of the day. Passing by a subway station entrance, there was a camera crew waiting to interview early commuters. It turned out the transit strike was averted at the last minute.

I was vaguely disappointed since Toronto would still be walkable without motorized transportation. For the strike back in 2008 I bought a used bike. The walkout, which was struck down by provincial legislation, was so short that I didn't need it for commuting to work. But the bike proved convenient for getting around town until cumulative thefts (first the seat, then the front wheel) made it unusable. Now its presence only existed as old images on Google Street View.

It rained until the afternoon so I worked remotely from my room. Ironic since I was much closer to the office here than in Ottawa. The bao ($3.25) and chicken banh mi ($5.50) that I bought from Huy Ky yesterday provided sustenance. In the early evening, I made my way through pleasant weather to the Nepalese restaurant Bhojan Ghar. This joint, along with Abugida, were pleasant discoveries back in December. I enjoyed my return to the latter and I was looking forward to trying out more food from Bhojan. But I was disappointed with my meal this time round.

The giant image of Dehradhun still hung on the wall but the young and eager waitstaff was gone. Instead of the Nepali Thali, I chose Paneer Makhani ($14.99), Naan ($3.25), and a plate of Chicken Momos ($15). The best were the momos, which I haven't had in more than a decade; they were soft, chewy, and nicely seasoned. With 10 of them, there were plenty of leftovers.

The naan and curry were poor dishes. Gone was the fragrance and toothsomeness that made me ranked the flatbread so highly last time. At first, I attributed it to my taste buds. I have been theorizing that age has dulled my senses. How else to explain the lack of flavour from recent outings both in Toronto and Ottawa? But if true, the Makhani curry would be even worse off because it was shockingly sweet. I ate the cheese cubes but left half the curry untouched. Bhojan was bustling with takeout orders and sit-down guests. The locals have obviously embraced it so perhaps I was the problem.

I returned to my stay already a bit unsettled and my energy drained away for the rest of the evening. If this year's CMW shows were at bigger venues like The Garrison or Revival Club, I might have tried my luck. But although there were some concerts at larger halls, the multi-band showcases for CMW 2024 were in tiny spots like The Painted Lady or Jazz Poetry Café. The thought of sitting cheek-to-jowl while masked and coughing had no appeal for me.

The Freshmaker

The Thursday morning trip was as dreary as I felt. After my visit to my grandma 2 week-ends ago, I came down with a fever. She thought I didn't dress for the weather (it was a cool-ish Spring day) but I think it was that I forgot to wear my mask on the bus. After my fever cleared, I wasn't surprised that a cough lingered on. For about 2 decades, this was the bane of any illness. So I was feeling rather low-energy from sleepless nights and interminable bouts of coughing.

Toronto was sunny and hot but compared to previous trips, I couldn't muster up my usual enthusiasm for The Big Smoke. But once I made it to my East End rental, the heat and liveliness finally perked up my spirit. I was staying on a main-floor bedroom instead of the usual basement suite. It was smaller but the higher ceiling and window view onto the street were good compensation. I chatted with the owner: must be nice to have an income from renting out rooms and traveling all over the world.

When I stay here, I often walk down to Riverdale to buy some comestibles. With summer coming, some of the local shops were setting up their sidewalk patio. I made purchases at Banh Mi Huy Ky but my detour to No Frills was a bust. I was planning to buy my usual Deluxe nut mix as well as some canned food for a charity concert at The Garrison. I should have paid attention to the signage back in April. All the stores have closed to make way for a new subway station and high density development.

I thought about returning to The Real Jerk but one of the newcomers finally opened. Nutmento was a small space that also offered Caribbean fare. There were a few tables and paintings of Bob Marley and Drake. Given the recent beef between the latter and Kendrick Lamar, handily won by Kendrick, a giant mural of Aubrey was a bold choice. I debated between just a sandwich (not usually offered at these places) and a regular meal. I finally opted for a full bowl ($12.95) to support the new business.

It was a large meal comprising of both saffron rice and rice and peas as well as your choice of toppings (I picked coleslaw, corn, tomatoes, daal, and some jalapeno peppers). I'm always astounded at the amount of food compared to Ottawa. The curry chicken was soft and tender but the sauce was too runny. Nutmento didn't dethrone Real Jerk based on flavour but it gets kudos on price; the full bowl was several bucks cheaper than the competition and the $7 jerk-chicken sandwiches would make an affordable lunch.

Lacking canned donations for the concert, the distant location of the venue, and a possible transit strike at midnight, I settled my tired body down for an early night instead.