Show Me The Green

To and from my brunch at Caren's, I took the opportunity to do some walking. On the way there, I strolled mostly along Dupont and on the way back, through the streets of North Annex. There were several business closures between Ossington and Spadina, perhaps pandemic related. I was surprised that Vinny's Panini had shuttered. I thought it would be there for another decade or two. Casamiento, formerly a food stall in Kensington Market, has taken over. As I moved East, Dupont became trendier. But once past Davenport, it was full-on fancy residential.

When I crossed Avenue Rd, we were in the homes of the 1%. Streets like Macpherson and Roxborough had immaculate houses and old, stately trees. Even the city park was better. Ramsden Park stretched over 13 acres from Avenue to Yonge St., with tennis courts, rink, and walking trails. It was calm and pleasant; no homeless encampments here.

On the way back, I explored North Annex mostly along Bernard and Olive. These areas were also quiet oasis with abundant trees. Some of the houses were even larger than those on Macpherson. But given their more lived-in conditions and the presence of many 20-somethings around, they were now likely small apartment units. However, parents with young children at Jean Sibelius and Vermont Square Park hinted that the well-off professional class were taking over. I'm biased to neighbourhoods south of Bloor but North Annex could actually be better than its counterpart.

I stumbled upon The Wood Cake House (with the related Bugmobile) at 473 Clinton St. In retrospect, it seemed par for the course since several "weird houses" are located in this part of Toronto. Several baseball games were taking place at Christie Pits and there were plenty of folks gathered on the grass enjoying the sunshine, convo, and food.

Caren Is Sharing

On Sunday, I visited the Yonge St. area between Rosedale and Summerhill. Since it lies between two subway stations on my way to elsewhere, I have never walked here at street-level. The area was quite fancy since it abuts the priciest neighbourhood in Toronto. There were a number of tony shops and restaurants including an enormous LCBO housed inside an old railway station. Possibly only the Rosedale Diner with its slogan "real food for real people" was for the hoi polloi. With the rising street elevation, looking South was an impressive view of all the gleaming condos and buildings marching down to the lake.

I was there to meet up with a friend for brunch at Carens. Its regular menu skewed French but the brunch items were more diner-style from an egg breakfast to a mac and cheese entree. I ordered a grilled cheese sandwich ($16) and a Stella Artois ($7). This wasn't Kraft slice but a tasty mix of emmentel, gruyère, and raisin walnut bread. But it was grilled a little too hard for my liking; those hard edges could cut up some gums! The red pepper jelly spread added a touch of sweetness, but it was even better mixed in with the salad.

We sat in the bright sunshine and caught up on matters. For them, an operation went well and their family member was making a full recovery. For me, plans for a family investment in real estate fell through with too many conflicting desires. But most significantly, they were going ahead with semi-retirement and will stop working at the end of October. It was a decision that took close to a year but it was finally made. I was impressed with their gumption given the current uncertainties around the pandemic.

Thicker Than Water

I go to Geary for old-school Porta Nova, even though there has been an influx of trendy businesses. I did, however, once attended a concert inside a brewery. But with the Portuguese restaurant gone, I might as well embrace the newcomers.

Looking around on Saturday, I finally decided to grab a half-pint and a sandwich combo ($11) at Blood Brothers Brewing. The Black Hand ($4.75) was a rich stout with a chocolatey aftertaste. It paired well with the portobello sandwich. The latter came with arugula and goat cheese, neither of which were too strong. But the thin fries, or perhaps thicker shoestring fries, went even better with the beer.

Afterwards, I wandered up Bartlett past the convenient parkette across from the brewpub, filled with people enjoying BB's beer as well. The houses were well-maintained with many new renovations, either just the front facade or the entire house. But these weren't the typical modern reno of boxy outlines and dark wood frame surrounding large windows. They were what I usually associate with established Portuguese families: gabled roof, pale bricks, perhaps some bay windows.

As I walked up and down these side streets between Geary and Davenport, I stumbled upon Knockout Ice Cream on Westmoreland. They had an entire wall of flavour but only the lit-up ones were available. I could have chosen the more unusual ones but settled for a mint chocolate ($4). It was good, smooth, and no frozen ice bits. It tasted a bit familiar and so I wasn't surprised to find out Knockout shares the same DNA with Bang Bang and Bakerbots.

The Bowl Is Fine

On Wednesday, I headed over to the Lansdowne and Bloor area for some pasta (that was not Sugo's). But I couldn't find Buon Appetito, despite it still having an online presence. At the location was a Korean restaurant called Roll & Bowl. Since Mazz Sushi was currently not serving lunch during the pandemic, this might make a good substitute. It was a cozy, charming place. They had repurposed old door-frames as barriers between tables.

The menu was typical of these Korean/Japanese hybrid restaurants. It skewed mostly to affordable sushi rolls with some Korean dishes including Bulgogi and Bibimbab. I chose the Roll and Assorted Tempura ($14.95). It came with japchae noodles and miso soup. The japchae was oily but tasty, though slightly over-salted. I thought there were two stand-outs compared to Mazz. First, the pickles brightened up the meal. Second, I thought the sushi rice was better: soft and holding together nicely. I will come back give it a second go but R&B looked promising as a regular spot.

Ravines

On Sunday, I went to Spice Indian Bistro for lunch. Long story short, after about 90 minutes of walking, I discovered it wasn't open despite its listed hours. A consequence of the pandemic? But the stroll wasn't all for naught as I visited new neighbourhoods.

I used to spend more time around St. George and Yorkville. With museums, concert halls, and the "Mink Mile" fancy shops, these areas always had the Manhattan vibe of out-sized buildings. But they also had humbler draws like a cluster of affordable restaurants (China Garden, Pho Hung, Booster Juice) across from the ROM. Now a towering condo was located there. Everything was in shadows and the outdoor patios weren't inviting. Even a destination restaurant like Sassafraz felt diminished.

Building constructions continued to Yonge St. Oddly, I haven't spent much time East of this busy intersection. The architecture ranged from Victorian to Brutalist, but it looked like it has always been business oriented, big and imposing. There was human-level activities by the time I turned south on Sherbourne St.

Shiny condos rose in the foreground while the older, derelict tenements of St. James Town crowded behind. Strange to think the 60s-era apartments had larger units; stranger to ponder if all these new housing, here and elsewhere, will become ghettos 50 years down the road. Signs touting new construction guarded boarded-up buildings. There weren't too many restaurants except for the occasional Gabby's (at the boutique Isabella Hotel) or Maison Selby.

Further south, low-rises, rooming houses, and overgrown lots cropped up. By the time I reached Moss Park, the typical encounter skewed male, older, a little worse for wear. This site was the epicenter for the recent increase of homeless encampments at several Toronto parks. Later on in the week, the ad-hoc group Encampment Support Network (ESN) would hold a rally here to highlight the ongoing housing crisis, exacerbated by pandemic-related evictions.

With Chef Saha's restaurant closed, I wandered among the trendy buildings of Queen, Adelaide, and King in search of a bite to eat.

One O'Clock on a Saturday

Over the last several years with online distractions I have spent less time reading. But during the pandemic, I rediscovered my love of the written word and have consumed a large amount of newspaper articles, long-form magazine essays, and novels. But it was entirely digital through my tablet. So on Saturday, I visit Bakka-Phoenix to buy some books and support a local business.

Before my browsing, I sat down next door at Piano Piano's sidewalk patio for lunch. After perusing the menu, I remembered why a friend and I had chosen other restaurants every time we met. This restaurant was on the pricey side even if it was less chi-chi than Yorkville or King West. Though I have eaten pizza these last two days, I couldn't resist ordering The Bitter ($22).

First, the idea of bitter toppings (kale, dandelion, garlic) was intriguing as I was a fan of astringent flavour. Second, I wanted to compare it against my recent visit to Vivoli since it had a 30% price premium over the latter. The toppings were good with the bitterness playing off the combination of lemon and chili. However, I think that other choices such as (sautée) rapini would be even better. The crust was excellent, blistered from the heat, fresh, and toothsome. There was a slight tanginess reminiscent of sourdough which went well with this particular pizza but I don't know if it would work with other toppings. Finally, whatever the difference between mozzarella and fior di latte (which is supposedly just mozzarella in Italian) it was immediately obvious. The cheese here at Piano punched up every bite.

This was a great lunch and Piano Piano had a definite leg up on Vivoli. But in general, there are just as good pizzas at cheaper price points. This is likely true for the pasta and mains, too.

Groove Is In The Heart

Friday, I went to the Kensington Market area. First, to visit the owner of Fresca. But we only had a 5-minute chat before the lunch crowd poured in. Some ordered their own pizza or pasta. But most were there to pick up a slice or two. No worries about stale pizza here. The minute a pie popped out of the oven, it was divvied up post haste. Remaining slices don't spend more than a few minutes in the display case before someone else snapped them up. As I waved goodbye, I realized these proprietors were only a few years from retirement, too. The era of the "Toronto pizza" may only be a blip.

Since a margherita slice wasn't a full lunch, I then headed to some new stores I had previously seen. Vegan Caribbean joint Veggie D'Light had put out more curbside tables. This small basement diner was mostly an open kitchen with just enough room to look at the menu and order. Though the sign suggested it was a "pick-your-protein, pick-your-base" set-up, the chef simply gave me a bit of everything for the large meal ($14.75).

After one bite, I knew it would be a delicious and filling affair. The curry beans were delicately flavoured with just enough heat for a slight tingle. The jerk seitan was moist, tasty, with a hint of sweetness. The combination of sauteed veggies (mostly cabbage), fresh greens, and brown rice made for a great balance. Some moringa bread slices changed up the texture and spice profile. This was a great discovery and I plan to come back to try other dishes including the dhalpuri roti.

Break Lively

On Wednesday, I headed to Little Italy on a scouting mission. Co-workers I haven't seen in months, ever since the pandemic lockdown in March, wanted to meet for lunch before the cold weather arrives. One wanted to not only sit outside on a patio but would also prefer to be as physically separate as possible. A tall order in downtown Toronto but one such establishment might do the trick.

Vivoli opened several years ago but wasn't a restaurant I ever visited. With a cheerful, noisy crowd at its ground-level and roof-top patios, this wasn't my dining scene. After a fire broke out in the building housing shawarma place Ghazale in 2018, both Vivoli and The Fish Store were also damaged. The latter reopened after about 6 months. But Vivoli needed more than a year for repairs, just in time to close again for COVID-19.

I sat down at a patio table. The crowd hasn't fully returned yet, especially for a mid-week lunch, and this four-seater was quite large. This set-up would probably do for my colleagues. Though they had a $10 lunch menu, I chose a Rimini pizza ($17) from the regular menu. The white pie was delivered in due time.

Overall, this was solid effort pizza, maybe a B- or a C+. The toppings of mushrooms, zucchini, and red peppers were good. The goat cheese was sharp without being overpowering. The crust was toothsome and had a good chew. There were some negatives though. I didn't detect any eggplant or XV olive oil (except what I added myself). The mozzarella didn't have much flavour; there should be better cheese in a bianca pizza. Finally, the crust was quickly losing its toothsome bite as it cooled. Similar to the classic rock/oldies playing from inside the restaurant, Vivoli was safe dining. You come for the ambience, watch the foot traffic, and eat acceptable Italian food.

Has The Levee Run Dry?

On Sunday, I stopped off at Sweetie Pies Bakery at Harbord and Grace. Though they did have small pies for sale, I was full from lunch at Tondou Tsuken-Ramen. I opted for a chocolate chip cookie ($2.50) and a scoop of mint chip ice cream ($3.85). This corner had previously hosted malt shop Bean and Baker. In the aughts, it was the site of Linux Caffe complete with inflatable penguin mascot.

I enjoyed the ice cream more than the cookie. The latter was soft, chewy, and tasty. But I find these stores use too much sugar in their baked goods. If this was normalized for the typical taste bud, how much sugar was in the average person's diet? Being a warm, lazy day, I continued my walk up to Christie Pits Park.

Yes, I was back in Toronto. And everything felt familiar and welcoming: the curbside patios as I popped into Vena's for a roti Saturday night after my train ride, the slow brunch of Vegetarian ramen on Sunday. Throughout the week, I visited my regulars for lunch: West Indies from Pam's Roti, South Asian at Dosa Mahal, and Vietnamese from Galaxy T&T.

I have mentioned gentrification before. A neighbourhood with nice restaurants and stores feels cosmopolitan. But who can afford to eat at $80 bistros several times a week? Bloorcourt and Bloordale are the rare neighbourhoods that have a good mix of businesses. Yet even in these areas, the disappearance of local businesses including Chinese and Vietnamese eateries over the past decade signaled a gradual change.

Time may also have its way with these affordable, "mom-and-pop" shops. The average age of the owners was over 60. No one will replace them when they retire. A few years ago, unassuming diner China Ocean Restaurant near Dufferin and Bloor closed because the children weren't interested in taking over the business. Time to leave urban living to young folks? Because nobody wants to hear some crotchety windbag complain about "back in my day".

The Not So Young and The Kind Of Restless

I have been in Ottawa to visit family since late August. Even though I was here in March, I haven't seen most of them since last Christmas due to the pandemic. We gathered for a Sunday lunch on the 30th. It was a chance for me to meet my latest niece who was born in February. At the other end, a family member was turning 92. Luckily, she has all of her mental faculties. Outside of some cataracts surgery, a gall-bladder removal, and the excision of a non-cancerous tumor 15 years ago, she was still in good physical shape. "Health is wealth" was her advice.

It was scheduled in a large backyard to minimize physical contact. But we ended up indoors because an infestation of wasps threatened several people because of their age or allergies. It was a culturally diverse meal though mostly Vietnamese food including spring rolls and papaya salad.

Because of some recent thoughts about moving, I tried to get a feel Ottawa as a place to live. Eating home-made food was a definite positive. The city has improved since I left decades ago. Its main negative was still its fragmented nature: pockets of small, interesting neighbourhoods separated by areas of "blight" (car-centric or empty of people and businesses). I recalled that Ottawa was more bike-friendly and so, over the last 2 weeks, I used a bicycle to get around. The separated bike trails along the Canal, Rideau river, and Experimental Farm were excellent. The painted ones along the streets less enjoyable since you had to dodge sewer grates and cracked pavement. But at least Ottawa has more bike lanes than Toronto.

Real estate, both for rent and purchase, was more affordable than The Big Smoke. Yet even here, it wasn't that cheap for new residents. A long-time Ottawan might enjoy low rates but a newbie would still be emptying out their pockets. The downtown core was walkable but with a lack of parks and mature trees, it felt more concrete jungle than my own urban location in Toronto. No wonder the cheaper suburbs was an attractive draw. It was a good alternative ... in summer. Ottawa, in winter, now that's the question.