Ay Crow Ramble

During my classes last summer, I frequented numerous eateries along the strip. Schmaltz Appetizing (inside an old pharmacy) at the corner of Dundas and Ossington was a single visit because I found their bagel and cream cheese offering was subpar. It was surprising since the place was hopping every time I walked by. But it had a great instant-retro look, as if like the Lakeview Diner it had been in the neighbourhood for decades. During my order, I overheard that they were shutting down for another venture.

On Saturday, I stepped inside the new Gordy Smiles for brunch. I wasn't sure if the name was a nod to Canadian luminaries (Howe, Downie) or a Spanish wink (gordo = fat) to Antony Rose's other restaurants (Fat Pasha). They've removed the large deli display case to make room for communal park benches. There were 3 small tables by the window where the ledge seats were covered with thin faux hides.

The menu was Mexican so after a quick perusal, I settled on the Breakfast Gringas ($16). It was a good-sized dish of 4 griddle-fried flour tortillas. The top layer comprised of parsley, onions, fried egg, and a sprinkling of pickled condiments: beets, carrots, jalapenos. Sandwiched in between the tortillas were squash, charred onions, chopped bell peppers, and a bit of cheese. There was a selection of salsa from mild to hot including verde, roja, piquin, and nutty macha.

Overall, it was an average meal. All the ingredients seemed fresh, especially the condiments and salsa, but nothing gave you a distinctive flavour profile. I would have liked more cheese since the little bit I tasted elevated everything. There were no beans I can recall though it was listed in the description. The hand-made tortillas were good though, even if they did provide quite the workout in trying to slice them with a table knife.