Thursday, January 29, 2015

Have You Eaten?

Fat Pasha, a modern Jewish eatery, was declared to be the best new Toronto restaurant of 2014 by The Globe and Mail food critic. So I wasn't sure that I would get a seat Wednesday night. But although the space was busy even early in the evening, I was able to score a spot.

Similar to Essen, this restaurant presented a short menu with items from both the Middle-East and Eastern Europe. The pickle appetizer ($9) was a bowl brimming with all manners of acidic condiments: beets, black and green olives, as well as green and red chilies. It was good but quite mouth puckering, so I would suggest pairing with some carbs to moderate the taste. Sadly, the red chilies did not pack the punch I was expecting.

From the Middle-East, I got a harissa couscous plate ($18). And from Eastern Europe, it was your ubiquitous chicken schnitzel ($22). Both had excellent flavour though I gave the edge to the chicken. The couscous combination with apricot, chickpeas and olives was tasty but a little tangy. I think playing up the bittergreen stew or spiciness of the harissa would make a better balance. White chicken breast can be a bit bland, but the schnitzel was perfect. The breading was light and not too oily, allowing for that richness to come from the honey brown butter. Otherwise, it might have sat too heavy in the gut. The crunchy rutabaga and apple slaw added just the right amount of fresh crunch. This was an excellent meal, with generous portions too. I had enough leftover for a delicious lunch.

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