Slow Food

The Slow Food Movement should visit Rikishi near Christie Pits Park. Since there is 1 sushi chef, and he looks to be about 85, the first secret is: "20 minutes for your order, add another 20 for every table that's occupied." Given a week of loud and rude fellow passengers on public transit, I decided on Friday that this was the place for me tonight, having skipped over this quiet oasis for flashier Izakayas for the past few months.

But I picked the wrong evening. Two quite vocal women were in the space. They finally left in a huff after a wait of 40 minutes. I would have more sympathy since they obviously were expecting cheap and quick sushi given the unassuming décor. But as they stiffed the waitress on the bill for what they've already eaten, and had also spent 5 minutes cackling over a video played at full volume on their iPhone in complete disregard for other diners, I wasn't feeling too bad. And if their threats to bad-mouth Rikishi prevent others like them from dropping in, the regulars (who've been keeping this place open for 25 years) wouldn't shed much tears either.

How's the sushi? I paid $19.75 for the sushi deluxe set. It's a few dollars more than similar ones at the other places on the strip but the quality is several notch higher. You won't get Kaji-level but everything was done right. The rice was at room temperature, slightly moist, with a hint of vinegar, and loosely packed. The seafood was flavourful and delicate.

Another secret is that while you're waiting, and if  you're willing to spend a bit more money, go over the extensive menu (don't forget about the chalkboard specials) and pick a few dishes. Tonight, I opted for the kaki fry ($7.25) and white tuna tataki ($6.75). The first was oyster fried in a light batter. It was a textural dish with bursts of ocean saltiness. The second was rich, buttery tuna with a smoky seared outside. Both were delicious.

The final secret to Rikishi is to bring friends who are partial to quiet conversations or a good book for reading. And keep in mind that old adage: "Good things come to those who wait."