Saturday night I went to Richmond Station, a restaurant run by Carl Heinrich, the season 2 winner of Canada's Top Chef. Tucked inside a commercial building surrounded by other high-rise and offices, it could be easy to miss the small door at Yonge and Richmond with a tiny sign overhead. It was more welcoming inside: 2 levels, long and narrow, but with high ceiling. Reservations are likely needed for busy days.
I started with the duck liver pate ($9). It was smooth and creamy, but milder than I expected. I want my pate to have an earthier flavour. In fact, it was easily overwhelmed by the apple-allspice chutney. However, the portion was quite generous so you can compensate by slathering on thick spreads over the soft brioche. The butternut squash ($7) was also too quiet. I suppose my taste buds are insufficiently refined. Yes, the soup was rich, and the pumpkin seeds, sage oil, tarragon, and chives were nicely balanced. But there was no "mmm..." moment.
So far, it was all good food but I was a bit underwhelmed. Luckily, the chili and fennel pasta ($23) came through. The handmade orechiette was nicely al dente with a great chew. The toscano cheese and (quite abundant) sausage were fragrant. The basil and chili gave it a bit of an Asian flair. Don't forget to get some bread to mop up the sauce. It was an excellent and satisfying entree.
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