Don't Have A Cow, Hombre

Passing through Little Italy during the lock-down period, I saw that a new Mexican place at College and Clinton called La Bartola was in renovation. With stage 2, they were opened with a few tables curbside. Since we were now in stage 3, I decided to pay them a visit. I wanted to sit inside because I had visited this place when it was Frank's Kitchen (but not the short-lived Abbiocco or Chez's).

Gone was the low lighting, lush curtains, and a general air of gentility. It has turned into a bright space with big, colourful paintings, blue pinwheels, Judy Garland as Dorothy in a Mexican dress, and a giant, illuminated TACOS sign hanging from the ceiling over the bar. But this wasn't kitschy Latin, La Bartola was upscale Mexican dining à la Quetzal, still something of a rarity in Toronto.

The other pleasant surprise was that the entire menu was plant-based. When I eat at other Mexican and Latin-American restaurants, finding good non-meat options was usually a struggle. Gus Tacos does offer an excellent mushroom torta. I chose a Green Ceviche Tostada ($9), Chorizo and Cactus Tacos ($13), and a Sope de Jackfruit Pibil ($11).

All of the options were delicious with subtle flavour; it was obvious that everything was made in-house. It started excellently with the Ceviche, a great balance between maize crunchiness and tangy freshness. A hint of smoke from the charred habanero mayo punched up the taste. In contrast, the tacos was a slight let-down. The cactus was too mild and the rice gave it a weird texture. I also wanted more toothsomeness from the tacos. But dinner finished strong with the Pibil. Jackfruit, the go-to for pork substitute, made a great impression. A wonderfully smoky refried beans and corn tortilla served as a solid foundation for the dish.

La Bartola was also similar to Frank's in that it served a delicious, beautifully presented meal that wasn't completely filling. Luckily, if you have a big appetite, Burrito Boyz is still in business across the street.