Crunch Time

Each Christmas I try to minimize my search for gifts by buying for most people on my list from the same store if possible. Usually, I pick one that is only found in Toronto. One year, it was Uniqlo; another year: Muji. Last year, with the opening of Italian food emporium Eataly, about half of my family got fancy olive oil, imported pasta, and tasty spread. Since this 3-story shop also had several restaurants, I thought I would return to try their fresh food.

On Saturday, I came in just before noon. I only had one hour to spare so I thought a quick pasta or pizza might do. But all the restaurants were full up. I finally settled on the Romana-style pizza at the by-the-slice Pizza Alla Pala counter. I had it to go because even general seating was packed. I got two slices: a radicchio e cipolla ($5.20) and a margherita ($4.90). The latter was pretty bad with heavy, congealed cheese. The former was better with a mix of red and white onions, mozzarella, and radicchio. A sprinkling of parmesan balanced out the bitterness of the "Italian chicory". There was a sweet aftertaste of balsamic vinegar to cleanse the palate.

So that was a hint of how good it could be even if overall, it still wasn't great. These slices suffer from 2 fatal flaws. Firstly, roman-style pizza is crusty with not just a thick, crunchy edge but a firm, browned bottom, too. I first had it at (defunct) Lo Zingaro a few years ago. I'm doubtful this style of pizza should be reheated. Secondly, this counter doesn't even warm up the slices in the pizza oven. They used something underneath the check-out. It was probably a small oven and not actually a microwave but it didn't turn out much better. It only made the crust harder while leaving the cheese still cold.

Yes, the chef was constantly putting out new pizzas. I suppose you could be a shrewd/hard-nosed customer and always pick and insist on the newest slice. I also saw a lady walk by with an entire box. If that wasn't just for convenience because she got several slices, and you could order an entire pizza, then that could work. Otherwise, with some slices at almost $8, I wouldn't consider that a good deal for this mediocre food.

I didn't expect my first taste of Eataly to be so poor. I'm pretty sure the actual restaurants are better. Certainly, my purchases from groceries/dry goods turned out great. So I'll probably give it another go but realistically, it's low on my list.