Ra-mensch

When I saw ramen on the menu of Jewish bistro Essen, I knew I had to come back to try it. After a week of sudden snow storm and gusty winds, I decided that this chilly Tuesday night was perfect to test this concoction. A table of old Jewish men were debating their choices, but I didn't need to ponder it over: Jewish ramen ($10) and a side order of duck fat fries ($6).

The soup was a cross-over. On the Jewish side, you had carrot cubes, matzo balls, and kreplach. On the Asian side, there was soft-boiled egg and egg noodles. But the combination was less than its parts because there wasn't much "ramen vibe". Chef should consider Eastern veggies like bean sprouts and wood ear mushrooms; the flat pasta didn't have the toothsomeness of ramen noodles; and the eggs lacked that perfect balance between firm egg-white and cooked but still runny egg-yolk. It was my first matzo ball and to be honest, I'm not a fan. But the broth was flavourful and the kreplach was excellent. Instead of the usual boiled dumpling stuffed with ground meat, it was fried and crispy with tasty beef brisket. The ramen was an interesting idea but not well-executed.

The fries were better, more in line with my previous experience here. They were thinly sliced, scalloped-style, and came out toasty and golden. Topped with green onions and dill, this was a delicious side-dish.