Bigger On The Inside

When Caribbean Queen (home of spicy Jerk chicken and patties) moved across the street, the old spot was taken over by a resto-bar called The Emerson. Given the cramped interior of the old Queen, it's inconceivable that all that space was behind the kitchen doors. The new digs must have been created by joining several adjoining spaces.

When I stepped inside on Wednesday night, it was one of the largest local restaurant I've been to. Given the gentrifying Bloor and Lansdowne, there were nods to hipsterism: road bikes, fishing rods, model airplanes and other knick-knacks were mounted to the walls. But the overall feel was old-style pub with dark wood tables and benches. The Emerson offers a daily special but I decided to skip tonight's Parm sandwich and got a pan-roasted Artic char ($18) with a side of butternut squash gratin ($5) and roasted mushrooms ($5). The fish came out evenly cooked with a good mouth-feel but the skin could be crispier. It sat on a tasty bed of spinach and caramelized onions. But the beurre blanc left no impression.

The sides were a good complement. I was a bit disappointed with the gratin; I thought the squash would be more flavourful. The mushrooms were generously portioned and had a nice give. But the dish was all button mushrooms: good taste from the blandest choice. I would have preferred a smaller plate with more variety and, yes, pricier options.