Saturday, January 21, 2012

False Idol

It has always been a mystery to me why tiny Ethiopian restaurant Nazareth at Bloor and Dovercourt is so popular. There is always a lineup though there are lots of other Ethiopian alternatives in this area. Given the slowness of this style of cooking, it would be a longer than usual wait. It must be that the dishes here are exceptional.

Things started poorly Friday night with the owner making me wait though there was a table available. The reason? My friend had not yet arrived. When you are popular, you can act so obnoxiously to your customers. With only that table free, would I have ended up standing, having lost out to the next in line? I would have gone elsewhere if true; I should have done so in retrospect.

The vegetarian and fish platter came piled with food. It was generously proportioned but decidedly sub-par. The veggies were mostly variations of lentils: no collard greens, cabbages, and other Ethiopian staples. They lacked the subtle heat at other places. The fish was drenched in oil and ghee, I could barely taste the fish. I now appreciate African Palace's effort to cut back on the butter.

My previous skepticism was borned out. I will leave this place to trendy hipsters and return to my previous haunts with no lines, welcoming service, and superior fare.

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