Friday, November 18, 2011

Two Princes

Chicken yakitori
Prince Japanese Steakhouse is a Japanese sushi/teppanyaki restaurant near Eglinton and Spectrum Way. The Teppanyaki side consists of large U-shaped tables flanking two surface grills manned by chefs busy cooking fish, steak, scallop and other mains. The highlight of the show is a flaming onion volcano. They are less flashy than other Japanese steakhouses. There's not much to be said for it: a reasonably cheap lunch, fairly large portions, but average food. Some observations:
  • If you order a vegetarian teppanyaki combo, they will finish it before starting the other dishes. This is probably due to fact that the same cooking implements are used for all orders, which would contaminate the vegetarian dishes.
  • A prodigious amount of oil and butter/margarine are added to everything: meats, seafood, vegetables and bean sprouts.
  • They cook the fried rice right on the large grill. I wonder how it compares to the traditional Chinese method of using a very hot wok.
  • The fans do suck up most of the smoke, but enough will cling to your clothes to give you that fragrant stale cooking oil smell. I wouldn't recommend it as a winter outing.
Miso soup and salad
Sirloin and Scallop

Sunday, November 13, 2011

After Life

When Ride The Cyclone, a musical from Victoria's Atomic Vaudeville, played at Summerworks 2010, I was blown away by the talent of the cast, the catchy music, the humour but also the underlying sadness. With their return for a 3.5 weeks run at Theatre Passe Muraille, I was eager to revisit this macabre production.

I was not disappointed. The tale of 6 dead teenagers, high-school choristers from small town Uranium, Saskatchewan, tragically killed in a roller coaster accident retains all its charm. Brought back for 1 last performance by the Amazing Karnak, a mechanical fortune-teller, they sing out their accomplishments and regrets. Ocean O'Donnell Rosenberg (Rielle Braid): ambitious over-achiever who never got to reach for the brass ring; Misha Bachinsky (Matthew Coulson): transplanted Ukrainian who hides his cultural isolation in gangster rap and internet romance; Constance Blackwood (Kelly Hudson): the fat mousy girl who is always overlooked; Ricky Potts (Elliott Goran): socially awkward nerd with a boundless imagination; Noel Gruber (Kholby Wardell): only gay teenager who longs for a life of passion and drama; and Jane Doe (Sarah Pelzer): an unknown headless girl who poses the most existential question of all: What is a life that is unremembered?

All performers have strong voices that sell the toe-tapping music: whether it's a soul number, a torch song, or over-the-top glam rock. But they are also deft actors, adding pathos to their roles as confused teenagers: the jokes can't hide their bewilderment and sadness with lives cut too short. The set is sturdier (with a bit more razzle dazzle) than last year, where it had to be quickly struck for the next Summerworks play. But with the cheesy props and snarky choreography, every song still has that "high-school production" vibe. This is a strength, not a fault; we don't lose sight of the fact that they are teenagers who like to "dress up" and put on a show because it's fun. Special mention should also go to James Insell as Karnak and Hank Pine as Virgil, the bass-playing rat.

I was lucky to get preview tickets before the reviews came in. With all the major dailies and various online sites giving Ride The Cyclone top marks, tickets became much harder to come afterwards.

Sunday, November 6, 2011

No Reservation

The Rez Sisters is a play written by Aboriginal playwright Tomson Highway. 25 years ago, it gave voice to the concerns of a marginalized minority that was not represented in the arts. This year, to celebrate its 25th anniversary, Factory Theatre remounted it. For this staging, there was additional interests because of the decision to cast some non-Aboriginal actors. I attended a preview screening Saturday night.

The play opened up with a house partially sticking out of the ground. A black winding path loops around the abode, dividing the stage in half. It was clear that we are looking down at the scene when a ladder appeared and Pelajia Patchnose (Jani Lauzon) climbed up on her roof. She effected some repairs and lamented her dead-end situation on the reservation, located in Northern Ontario on Manitoulin Island, with Philomena Moosetail (Kyra Harper). Eventually the rest of the women appeared: mentally disabled Zhaboonigan Peterson (Cara Gee), excitable Annie Cook (Djennie Laguerre), stoic Marie-Adele Starblanket (Pamela Sinha), butch Emily Dictionary (Michaela Washburn), and prissy Veronique St. Pierre (Jean Yoon). They all have hard-luck stories, bickered, fought, and gossiped. Circling the scene is Nanabush (Billy Merasty), the Trickster.

The impetus for the play was the news that The Biggest Bingo In the World will take place in Toronto. Each woman envisioned a different and better life for herself with the winnings. It was then a matter of raising enough money in various activities for the trip down to Southern Ontario.

I found the play unconvincing because of the open casting. I had no problem with using non-Aboriginal actors, in this case Asian, Black, and Caucasian, but rather that most did not fully inhabit their character. As an aside, Tomson Highway has stated he did not want to keep his plays limited to only native actors. But for me, the pressing issues are whitewashing: casting of Caucasian actors in originally ethnic roles (e.g., Desperate Measures, 21, The Last Avatar) or the more insidious practice of defaulting roles to Caucasian actors with minorities being only cast in roles that call explicitly for an "ethnic" character. In other words, it makes no sense to fight over a slice when somebody else keeps the whole cake.

Natives on a reservation in the 80s has such specificity in mannerism, speech, and accent that some attempt must be made to invoke that milieu. Unfortunately, most of the women used the standard, urban voice. One had a hard time keeping out her French accent. Some contemporary mannerisms unconsciously crept in such as the distracting head-wagging "you go girl" of current times. So they seemed more like the Desperate Housewives of Scarborough. A few of the women used a rural Ontario accent, which is to be applauded, but since not everyone did so, it made the mix on stage that much more surreal.

Ultimately, since I could not convincingly immerse myself because of these technical hiccups, the women never became real to me. So I did not care about their situation which seemed soap opera-ish, maudlin, and even exploitative. Without that truthful foundation, pathos became pastiche.

Friday, November 4, 2011

Be True To Old School

There are lots of new Japanese eateries in Toronto that offer more than sushi. Some offer specialty dishes such as the cheap diner Manpuku and the Ramen shop Kenzo Ramen. The remaining restaurants do Izakaya, traditionally food to accompany booze, including lively Guu and the more laid-back but upscale Fin Izakaya.

Salted tofu
Sashimi dinner
Rikishi is an 25+ year-old restaurant that can compete with those new kids on the block, but with its scruffy carpet and faded menu it isn't much of a destination place. But I have also heard that Ematei, tucked discreetly on tiny St. Patrick between Queen St. and Dundas St., is a hidden gem. So I head down there Thursday night to check it out.
Soft-shell crab maki
Pan-fried beef & burdock
My visit to Ematei confirms it. The cozy hideaway with dark wooden tables and discreet waitstaff serve excellent izakaya and sushi dishes at quite reasonable prices. After the tasty complimentary tofu appetizer, the sashimi ($27) plate contains a great selection of flavourful seafood along with miso soup and a salad. The pan-fried beef with burdock root ($7) is chewy but not overcooked. It is a bit salty and goes best with some rice. The soft-shell crab maki ($13) may seem expensive, until it arrives on the table. Then the large chunks of delicious crab says: "This is a great deal." The chicken yakatori skewers ($1.50/each) basted with BBQ sauce are nicely grilled and the grilled smelt ($5 for 3!) can be fully eaten head, body, and tail. The large scoops of green tea ice cream finish off a great meal.
Chicken yakitori
Grilled smelt
This is well-made, no-fuss, old-school Japanese dining. It offers tastier fares than some of the newer upstarts and possibly cheaper too. Now I'm eyeing that cheap $48 omakase option with anticipation.