Be True To Old School

There are lots of new Japanese eateries in Toronto that offer more than sushi. Some offer specialty dishes such as the cheap diner Manpuku and the Ramen shop Kenzo Ramen. The remaining restaurants do Izakaya, traditionally food to accompany booze, including lively Guu and the more laid-back but upscale Fin Izakaya.

Salted tofu	Sashimi dinner

Rikishi is an 25+ year-old restaurant that can compete with those new kids on the block, but with its scruffy carpet and faded menu it isn't much of a destination place. But I have also heard that Ematei, tucked discreetly on tiny St. Patrick between Queen St. and Dundas St., is a hidden gem. So I head down there Thursday night to check it out.

Soft-shell crab maki

Pan-fried beef & burdock

My visit to Ematei confirms it. The cozy hideaway with dark wooden tables and discreet waitstaff serve excellent izakaya and sushi dishes at quite reasonable prices. After the tasty complimentary tofu appetizer, the sashimi ($27) plate contains a great selection of flavourful seafood along with miso soup and a salad. The pan-fried beef with burdock root ($7) is chewy but not overcooked. It is a bit salty and goes best with some rice. The soft-shell crab maki ($13) may seem expensive, until it arrives on the table. Then the large chunks of delicious crab says: "This is a great deal." The chicken yakatori skewers ($1.50/each) basted with BBQ sauce are nicely grilled and the grilled smelt ($5 for 3!) can be fully eaten head, body, and tail. The large scoops of green tea ice cream finish off a great meal.

Chicken yakitori

Grilled smelt

This is well-made, no-fuss, old-school Japanese dining. It offers tastier fares than some of the newer upstarts and possibly cheaper too. Now I'm eyeing that cheap $48 omakase option with anticipation.