Sunday, November 20, 2011

Corner Bore

On the south side of the Rusholme and College jog, there used to be a mirrored scene. Two tiny convenience stores face each other across the narrow street, each flanked by a neighbouring building painted entirely black. That symmetry broke when one of them closed after many years, to be replaced by an arts and craft store, which lasted for only a few months.

At first, it would seem that another convenience store has returned, with a name of Dépanneur (convenience store in Quebec French), promising ice cream, coffee, and other items. Although there are such goods for sale, it is actually a small brunch place.

Shelves with home-made baked goods, small tables where you will bump elbows with fellow diners, knick knacks in nooks, a large antique map of Quebec, a painting of the Virgin Mary, two ovens, pans hung from racks, and and a bus-your-own-food ethos, it has the warm ambience of a friend's inviting and well-stocked kitchen. The owner chats warmly with regulars. I would bet from his mannerism and cadence that he is a transplanted Montreal anglo.

Too bad the rest of the experience is not as enjoyable. Water doesn't appear until you ask. Orders get mixed up, 3 breakfast plates preceded mine though they ordered after myself. At least I wasn't the poor schmuck before me who got his bacon and eggs 15 minutes after his girlfriend's. The quality is utilitarian; anyone with kitchen experience can make it. For $12 (before tip), I got an autumn omelette (2 organic eggs, gorgonzola, butternut squash, onion, sage and thyme) with some organic mixed greens. Bacon and toast would have cost an extra $3 each! A full breakfast at a greasy diner would have cost less than half, even a trendier brunch spot would give you a little more for your buck. Apparently, convenience store prices don't just apply to milk, pop, and chips.

As a side note, the owner also runs the Rusholme Park Supper Club. For $40, local cooks will host a dinner party with 3-4 dishes. Looking over upcoming menus, these also seem to be pricier than expected.

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