I Phil You

Before the recent explosion of BBQ places in Toronto,  for the last 20 years stalwart Phil's Original BBQ on College supplied your smoked meat needs. It has also went through some cosmetic changes a few years back thanks to reality show Restaurant Makeover. The photos of Jazz players remain, but now adorn dark wood panels fronted by small, stumpy tree branches. I've been there many times, and went back Tuesday night for some meaty nosh as I've been eating vegetarian for the last few days.

The beef brisket plate ($16.50) came with 4 large slices and your choice of two sides. This was old-school: bold and not particularly subtle. The beef was soft and tender, the beans were mushy and soft (none of that al dente stuff), and the BBQ sauces pungent. But I wish he'd update the overly tangy cabbage coleslaw. Most places have gravitated toward a lighter slaw with less fermentation, with usually better results. Other than that: the whipped butter, wet naps, and plain dinnerware? Keep it all like back in the day.