No White and The Huntsman

Red Fish opened near College and Dovercourt but has recently closed. It misjudged the neighbourhood vibe with its clean classic white linen look and relatively pricey fish. Despite the presence of high-end Chiado, this strip runs more to cheap diners and pubs.

Its replacement, the Huntsman Tavern, is taking a stab at the same location. With its homey dark wood (and blonde planks patio), it seems to already be drawing bigger crowds. I dropped by on Sunday to try out their brunch menu. I ordered the ploughman platter ($11) even though this dish is always a misnomer in any resto; no working-class schlub has ever sat down to nibble at such dainty and small fares. But compared to all the fried options, this was the healthy choice.

The side salad ($4) was arugula et al with a tangy dressing. So the green apple and grapes didn't complement the dish, but the cherry tomatoes and pecan did. The platter had a nice though small assortment of flavours that went well together: earthy blue cheese, sweet honey and cherry compote, tart apple. The chorizo was rich and crumbly but I wanted more spicy kick to the sausage.