Grill of the Chase

On a barren stretch on Carlton between Sherbourne and Jarvis sits Zakkushi, another Vancouver-based Japanese eatery that has opened shop in Toronto. Although it offers Izakaya-style food, the specialty is the many and varied ways it grills everything on skewers, over a large open bbq. Supposedly, special Japanese wood is used to give all dishes a unique flavour. On average, each skewer costs between $2 and $4. So although it sounds like a cheap eats, a typical 9-10 skewer per person dinner will run you about $40 after tax and tip.

Zakkushi eschews the bright, pulsing, dance-club feel of other Izakayas. It's all about dark wood, bench seats, and fake wood shingles evoking an ancient tavern. Sitting down on Friday, I half expected a group of ronin to come in for some sake and gambling. Highlights included the Oropon Sausage, grated daikon over smoky meat; Shishamo: strongly flavour smelt; Wagyu Beef Tongue: tender and juicy; Negi P-Toro: fatty pork with onions; and Yakioni: simple but tasty rice ball and soya. Less well received were Kawa: over-salted chicken skin; Scallops: overdone and dry; Shishitou: hot peppers and bonito; and Okonomiyaki: Japanese sea-food pancakes that are done better in Korean bistros.

It's a busy and convivial atmosphere. The nice thing is that they take reservations. The downside is that without one, they'll fit you in, but you'll be on a tight clock.

Scallops, Shishamo, Negi P-Toro	Oropon Sausage, Kawa
Wagyu Beef Tongue	Yakioki, Shishitou