The Kaarage Kid

Shio Ramen

After two instant ramen dinner this week (protip: roasted seaweed really classes it up), I decided to go for the real thing Friday night. There are many choices as a ramen invasion has taken over Toronto. The newest entrant, the only non-Japan outpost of Okinawan-based franchise Ryoji, had its grand opening tonight.

Despite the influx of new restaurants in little Italy, the typical decor remains old and old-world. Taking over from defunct Vecchio Frak, the owners have created a Ramen and Izakaya destination with  a young, trendy vibe. Although the typical Izakaya touches were there: long wooden tables, frenetic cooks over an open kitchen, and sake kegs encircling the bar, there were other interesting additions. For one thing, there were booths and tables for relatively more private seating. And the whole place was lit up with a wall of ryukyu electric lanterns like lighted church bells.

I got 3 dishes: Mimiga - boiled pigs' ears with peanut or chili sauce ($6), Takoyaki - octopus in a fried ball ($7), and Anno Aji - a lighter chicken and pork (shio) broth ramen bowl ($11). The mimiga came as thinly sliced pink strips, garnished with raw red onions. The chili sauce didn't add much; it'd probably be better to go with peanuts. This dish was mostly about texture and crunch. The octopus was garnished with seaweed, bonito, and bits of pickled ginger. Unlike other places, the inside was not batter but mashed potatoes. An interesting and tasty combination, but not a serious improvement on the classic formula.

Mimiga

Takoyaki

The ramen broth was lighter than other places. Perhaps to compensate, the pork had a thick strip of fat. Luckily, the whole thing melted in your mouth, and didn't have an overwhelming lard feel. It was a bit light on the sides with just a sprinkle of scallions and seaweed. The specially made "tondou" noodles had great mouth-feel and chew.

Everything was good except for the abysmal service. Whether it was the non-Japanese waitstaff's unfamiliarity with the dishes or the opening night's crush, it was not up to the usual excellent service at Japanese restaurants. My order took almost 1.5 hours in total, with large gaps in-between dishes. They were delivered out of order (eating the cold appetizer last wasn't fun), and to the wrong customers. I'm certain I got my neighbour's ramen, and vice versa. In fact, wrong delivery plagued all the diners around me. This should have been ironed out during any soft openings or trial dinners. I would suggest waiting for a month or more before checking Ryoji out. Hopefully, they'll have it fixed by then.