Waystation

Roasted tomato soup

For years, the village of Actinolite was for me a Greyhound bus stop between Toronto and Ottawa. Stopping at an official rest stop near Actinolite Junction, it was a chance to stretch your legs and maybe grab a sandwich. Now on a barren stretch of Toronto near Ossington and Dupont, an eponymously named restaurant has sprung up manned by one of Actinolite's native son.

On Saturday night, the restaurant was bright with floor-to-ceiling glass. Clean lines and table offered a quiet,  grown-up feel. Actinolite is definitely trying to buck the bohemian knick-knacks of most recent Toronto restaurants. The menu concentrated on simple dishes using local ingredients.

For the first course, I opted for a cold tomato soup ($10). A refreshing and cool appetizer, it was rich and creamy from the creme fraiche. The basil and tarragon added nice minty notes, and the grape tomatoes gave bursts of freshness. The feta didn't work quite as well, being a little too salty for the concoction. It was a wonderful soup for the Toronto heat.

Lamb soffrito

For the main, I ordered a grilled Ontario lamb rack ($28). The lamb soffrito was juicy and tender, with just a hint of redness. Two polenta gave a good toothsome chew to the dish. The fresh peas, carrots, and pine nuts were soft without being overdone. There was a hint of acidity thanks to tiny lemon zests. The dish was a nice combination of flavours and texture. If there was a downside it was the small portion size (6 bite-size slices) compared to the price.

This upscale restaurant is the first sign of gentrification on this strip. It will be interesting to see what else develops here in the next few years.