Meat Good

Rob Rossi was one of the finalist on the 1st season of Canada's Top Chef. After the show, he opened Bestellen near College and Dovercourt. I dropped by this new addition to Toronto on Sunday for some brunch.

The restaurant was a paean to all things rustic, but chic, and animal products. The front of the house was exposed bricks and chunky wooden tables. Over the bar was an exposed pig carcass (I hope it was a plastic model and not a taxidermist creation). Opposite was a clear view into the temperature-controlled meat cellar where various cuts of meat were being aged. The back of the house leading to the open kitchen were distressed wooden planks and communal benches.

I opted for the aged steak and eggs ($17). The first nice surprise, the steak was a substantial portion, unlike recent visits to other restaurants. The second nice surprise, the brunch items were seasoned instead of leaving the salt and pepper sprinkling to each customer.

The eggs and potatoes were crispy and lightly dusted with chopped chives. It was nicely seasoned but those watching their sodium levels may need to warn the kitchen to use a lighter hand. The steak was thick and juicy, with a slight tartness from the parsley and onions. Aging the steak gave it a stronger flavour similar to wild game. Furthermore, the thin coat of fat has become denser with a stiffer chewiness. It was a good and filling brunch.