Oldie But a Goodie

Ceviche

Tom Thai opened Foxley on Ossington several years back after closing his sushi restaurant at College and Clinton. It was the first upscale restaurant here before the Ossington strip got hot. Since then, attention has been paid to all the newcomers: Pizza Libretto, Fish Bar, Yours Truly. But returning to this restaurant reveals that he still has the touch, and the restaurant is still full though the long line-up is down to a table or two.

Tom does Asian fusion and fish extremely well, understated but flavourful. No surprise that his Artic char ceviche is perfectly cooked its tart base, retaining a slight chewiness. The black cod stewing in a salty broth with Asian greens is likewise tender and sweet, with a hint of leafy bitterness. The crispy shrimp can be crispier, but each portion is generous and mixes well with the fresh herb. The meat dishes are not as mouth-watering, but they still acquit themselves. The spiced venison wrapped in la lot (betel) leaf edges out the braised beef cheeks in curry as the better dish. However, the la lot needs to be grilled longer, to really bring out its distinct aroma and flavour.

Black cod

Crispy shrimp

Braised beef cheeks curry

Spiced venison la lot

This is a great meal that must be enjoyed in the correct manner: tapas-style to be shared with your fellow diners. Otherwise you end up like the table next to mine: 3 young women picking desultorily at their individual dishes.