Shozan is divided into 2 rooms. The casual ground-level area offered izakaya snacks. Upstairs, the room was dark walls, with 2 long tables, and booths separated by painted glass partitions. A kimono hung by the small windows. The menu was likewise more upscale.
Looking over my options I selected Soft Shell Crab Croquettes ($14), Sea Bass Sashimi ($12), and the Red Devil Roll ($15.25). The miso garlic tartar sauce made a nice dipping sauce for the rich and crunchy croquette. However, I wonder if it was a waste of crab as like most fried food, you mostly taste the oil and batter. I'm not sure the advantage of using kombu (kelp) to cure fish. Nevertheless, the sea bass was toothsome. The balance between the fennel, apple sauce, sweet figs, and savoury smoked eggplant made a nice foundation for the fish. Finally, the 8-piece Devil Roll was also excellent. There was 2 kinds of salmon, spicy salmon centre, cured salmon on the outside. It was also topped off with generous amount of black tobiko (fish roe) and juicy ikura (salmon roe). Even the wasabi, although not real wasabi, was milder and better flavoured than the standard green horseradish.
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