Hey, Hey

I keep missing the new restaurant Na Na. Once because I passed by the unassuming place unknowing, once because it was closed. But I was curious to try what the Globe and Mail restaurant critic called an uncompromising Thai restaurant. That is, a place that doesn't dilute its offerings for the blander North American palate. Finally on Saturday, I made it there for an early dinner.

In a nod to its "street food" offerings, Na Na had kitschy decor including fake tropical windows. Most apparent were the plastic stools and "sharing tables". I opted for the papaya salad ($8) and a pad prik king chicken ($15). The salad was a perfect combination of flavour: acidity from the lime, saltiness from a generous amount of fish sauce, earthiness from the peanuts and dried shrimp. The papaya and green beans gave it crunch and the cherry tomatoes imparted fresh bursts that cleansed your palate. I didn't find the chili (one of the hottest dish here) to be overwhelming like the review, merely a nice tingle. Overall, I haven't had a better dish in a while.

In contrast, the chicken main was a mild disappointment. At first, this "dry" curry dish was great. Closer to an Indian curry, it was rich and fragrant with highlights of lemongrass. But ultimately, it suffered from 2 issues. First, as it was mostly chicken with only a few small bean sprouts, the dish became one-note. Second, it was "restaurant seasoned" (i.e., very aggressively). Even the generous pile of white rice could not it tone down.

For "street food," it was a pricey meal with tax and tip. Na Na would be better as a take-out joint, especially if you don't want to sit cheek-to-jowl in a very busy spot. At home, you could add more vegetables and other side-dishes to ameliorate the entree and turn it into a more wallet-friendly 2 or 3 meals.