Triple Play

On the corner of College and Spadina sat Tandoori, a long-time small Indian take-out place that caters to the student population. Recently, The Clubhouse Sandwich Shop has taken over the spot. Obviously the decor was done on a budget but the bright wood was a welcome change to the grey accumulation of years of indifference.

As per the name, this joint only offers sandwiches plus a few sides. For a Saturday lunch, I opted for the fried halibut ($11) and the fries ($4.50). The halibut was good and not too heavy with oil. It imparted a nice crunch, complemented by the house tartar and some spicy mayo. I was especially eager for the fries though. Its claim to fame: triple fried. Once, the day before in salted water. And then twice more in peanut oil. This was excellent fries. Thick-cut fries, though often invoking a home-made feel, tend to be too starchy and soft. These fries retained the chewy middle but packed a delicious crispy outer shell. It was a bit strange that such an offering came with Heinz ketchup packets. But with fries this tasty, it was better to go without condiments.