Saturday, April 28, 2012

No Bailout Needed

The gentrification of Dundas West St. continues apace with numerous restaurants, clothing stores, and coffee shops sprouting up between Ossington and Dufferin. I checked out the recently opened The Federal Reserve at the corner of Gladstone and Dundas for lunch on Friday.

The decor is common to most new (smallish) restaurants nowadays, what might be termed "Hipster Authentic". There are stools along the front window and up against the diner-style open kitchen area. Rustic, wooden benches or pews provide seating. Large Communist stars adorn the brick walls and bare lightbulbs hang from the ceiling.

They offer typical lunch/brunch fares including Eggs Benedict and Cubano sandwiches. I opt for tangerine juice ($3.75), a small French Onion soup ($3), and The Ploughman's Lunch ($12) - a platter of meat and cheese. I don't recall ever drinking tangerine juice and now I know why it's not popular: it tastes like watered down orange juice. The soup disappoints: instead of gooey cheese and thick bread, it was a thin layer of cheese melted over crusty bread.

The main is much better. Today we have a rabbit and pork terrine (stuffed with nuts) with a selection of pickles, a mild cheddar, and Asian pear. The terrine is leaner and lacks that strong, fatty tone of pork terrine. It goes well with the pickles: spicy cauliflower, sweet relish-like green peppers, and super tart pickled berries. When I mentioned that the cheddar was simply too mild for my taste, I received an additional thin slice of blue cheese. This hits the spot, adding a rich, earthy contrast to the meat and condiments.

A nice addition to the neighbourhood, The Federal Reserve fills up quickly after 12. You'll be waiting in line for week-end brunches if you show up fashionably late here.

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