Guu-ey

Guu Izakaya opened its second Toronto location called Guu Saka Bar at Bathurst and Bloor in the Annex this past Sunday. I decide to check it out Tuesday night after work. Located on the South-East side, Guu has taken over a Burger King location, and done up the exterior as trendy uneven brickwork. The sign is barely visible but you can see a number of intrigued passerby peering through the tiny, palm-size windows that dot the otherwise solid brick facade.

Passing through the glass-covered front corridor, I find myself in the middle of new bar, enthusiastically greeted by a waitress. The front half, which runs the length of that entrance hall, is a giant tatami room. This also explains the curious faces on the sidewalk. You share 20 or so tables sitting on padded mats on the elevated wooden floor (no worries, your feet can dangle below the tables). You won't get as much privacy as other tatami rooms, but it is a quieter atmosphere than a typical Guu experience. The rest of the room is rustic Japanese with rough dark wood for the communal tables, bar, and walls. This includes the washrooms where even the faucet is in the shape of a miniature country water pump.

After sitting down at the bar, the entire waitstaff scream out some Japanese greeting, turn to face me, and bow. What to do with such over-the-top behaviour? I guess a smile and a nod will have to do. Beside the interior design which differ from the Guu bar on Church St., there are some other differences at least this early into its grand opening. First, given the extra space provided by the tatami room, the place doesn't have a line-up until past 7 pm. There are more Caucasian customers, about 25% of the clientele. However, some of them act as if they've never had Japanese food (or at least Izakaya), never seen a tatami room, or a bit hyperbolic in their praise (a "sushi master" at Guu? Oh, please.)

The food menu is also different. I order a glass of Sapporo (hmm, the pull tab for the draft beer is shaped like a samurai sword) to start. From the standard menu, I get the Gindara (grilled miso marinated black cod with yuzu sauce), deep-fried brie cheese, and 5 assorted fried skewers. From the grand opening menu, I decided on the pan fried daikon radish and the seared B.C. tuna sashimi.

The brie cheese comes as 3 breaded triangular wedges on a sweet mango sauce. An interesting combination, but the runny cheese interior is only room temperature. I am expecting cheese fondue-level warmth. Perhaps this is a logistical impossibility, but I know what I like. The radish is too soft for me, I was looking for a crunchier side dish condiment. Live and learn. The seared tuna has sprinkles of chopped green onions and fried shallots. Tuna tataki was wonderful the first time I ate it at Rikishi, but I've had this dish numerous times since then at various location and it has been a let-down. Even the 2nd time round at Rikishi wasn't that great. Perhaps it's the kind of dish that has an exciting novelty value but diminishing return.

The deep-fried skewers, with mayonnaise and teriyaki dips, are also mediocre. Only the ham benefited from the liberally coated bread-crumb shell, the vegetables would have been preferable in a light tempura batter. The potato and onion are good, but the lotus roots are sliced too thick and the mushrooms taste cheap and wet. Finally, the black cod arrives. Too salty and a bit over-cooked.

A disappointing meal. I claim some fault (Protip: not so much fried/grilled stuff), and partially excuse the kitchen (being only their 3rd night). But looking around at the other diners and their fried udon, mayo-covered shrimp, and baked oysters, I'm not excited about those dishes either. On the other hand, the salmon carpaccio and various salads look good. Maybe more fish and veggies next time. As I make my way out, the entire staff wave good-bye in unison, which I return, to the amusement of the line that has started to form in the entrance.