Friday, November 20, 2009

Pho-Pas

While I am Vietnamese, I don't usually eat Pho when I go to Vietnamese restaurants because it's typically not very good. Here are some reasons why:

The broth. A good broth is an all day thing. That is, it has to be simmering for 8 hours. This fundamental property should be familiar to anyone who enjoys sauces, stews, and other slow-cooked dishes. This is the minimum requirement, yet is often not met. Unfortunately, the other requirement of possessing an excellent broth recipe is usually lacking too. Your home-made broth might be tasty, but may not be restaurant worthy. Protip: Try to find out if a Pho cook/place can trace its familial roots back to a well-known Pho shop back in Vietnam.

The noodle. There are 2 kinds of Pho noodles: "fresh" and "dried". They have different texture and mouth-feel. Sometimes you want this, sometimes you want that. Most places don't even given you this choice. Other noodle problems: a pile of cooked noodle is plopped into the bowl before the broth is poured on it. This leads to clumped noodles that have to be disentangled. Also, the cold noodles cause a significant drop in the broth temperature. Instead of a nice hot bowl of Pho, it's merely warm. The professional Chinese and native Vietnamese noodle shops use noodle strainers and a bubbling giant pot of broth to re-heat your noodles.

The veggies. Historical fact: the proliferation of basil, mint, bean sprouts, etc. was introduced when Pho migrated to South Vietnam. However, it is not the authenticity of Pho styles I'm against. Rather, yet another group of cold ingredients to further cool your Pho. Protip: ask for your bean sprouts to be blanched. Also useful if you are travelling to a 3rd world country and is leery of eating raw vegetables washed in the local water.

The meat. Once again, the dumping of meat nilly-willy causes un-sightly clumping. The merely warm broth is insufficient to cook the raw beef or warm the cooked beef. The thick slices of beef in North America are a drawback. Though the meat is sliced paper-thin in Vietnam primarily because of cost, sometimes less is more. Anyone who enjoys a smoked meat or corned beef deli sandwich can relate. There's a reason they shave the meat thinly instead of giving you a big hunk, and not just because it adds more volume.

The time. Pho is a breakfast food. Like a warm bowl of oatmeal or porridge, the heat wakes you up, and the content keeps you full until lunch. Here, people eat it for lunch (not too unreasonable) and dinner (why?) Unlike a stew, it's not substantial enough and your bladder won't be thanking you for downing so much liquid before going to bed. Consider this food equivalent: Who wants to eat a giant bowl of chicken noodle soup for dinner? Yeah, me neither.

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