I previously said I have spent too much money travelling to Toronto for shows. But truthfully, if it was only that, I'd couldn't justify the cost to my frugal self. Saturday turned out to be the sort of day, just a "regular" one for The Big Smoke, which I don't have in Ottawa.
In the early morning, after eating leftover Ethiopian for breakfast, I took transit down to The Distillery District. I haven't been to this historic, cobble-stoned area in a while. Probably more recently than a decade ago but still not that often. I don't remember all the stores but it seemed like bigger eateries and indie breweries (and their large patios) have taken over the main corridor. Also, the whole zone was now surrounded by condos.
Once past The Distillery, I walked down Cherry St. and across several bridges to get to the new Biidaasige Park. Like most cities, the East-End was historically the location of plants, factories, and the dumping ground of wastes. With that land now at a premium, Toronto has been re-developing but also rehabilitating thousands of acres. So the street had clean sidewalks and bike lanes. Numerous plots had fencing announcing the development of dozens of buildings which would amount to entire neighbourhoods in the future.
The park itself was wonderful and part of the re-naturalization of the Don River (i.e., allowing it to meander again instead of being confined to a man-made channel). This flood-prevention would also open up the area to residential development. But on this sunny morning, it was the abundant green, native plants that made it seemed like you had left the big city. I was also there for A Lake Story where 400 people in 100+ canoes, carrying naturally-dye flags, paddled in formation through the river and into Lake Ontario. Similar to my approach to the Santa Claus Parade, I just wanted to see the start when they board and then be on my way. After watching the motivational speeches, the loading, and the group push-off, I headed back to the mainland. But I accidentally saw them for their entire trip.
As I moved back through the park, people were lined up at various points to watch the procession. The best view was just as they came around the first bend. I then walked back to Lakeshore with the intention of heading to Queen's Quay. I saw some new development and decided to do a quick tour. It turned out to be the East Bayfront area and many people were lined up by the water. Lo and behold, in the distance, the canoe armada was just coming out of the river mouth into the lake. The fluttering of the colourful flags drew oohs, aahs, and when they came closer to the waterfront, applause from the crowd.
East Bayfront was nice and I could see people buying condos here. Despite The Gardiner and Lakeshore Boulevard a few blocks north, there was a peaceful vibe. Two things surprised me. First, the presence of mature trees along the waterfront and at Sugar Beach. Second, it wasn't all new residential. There were quite a few businesses including George Brown College, Corus, Université de l'Ontario Français, Toronto Region Board of Trade and large retailers like Farm Boy and LCBO.
I jumped on the subway to have lunch at BHK Roll, a hidden gem inside a food court. This time, it was Chicken Vindaloo ($21) and thanks to my history with chef Saha, freshly-made basmati rice. But I admit I can't handle spices like I used to because the entrée packed almost too much kick for me. I think that more people have caught on because I saw someone eating Chicken Biryani and another person ordering several dishes from the pricier selection. My portion was huge and will serve as dinner on Sunday.
In the evening, I went to Koerner Hall (it has been a decade) for a concert by Tafelmusik, a group dedicated to "historically accurate" Baroque performances. Before I stepped inside, I asked a young woman standing alone why she wearing a cloak and carrying a lantern. It turned out she was waiting to lead a ghost tour. But I wasn't sure if there were any takers.
Rachel Podger (guest violinist and conductor) was leading this ensemble in 2 symphonies: Mozart's no. 40 and Schubert's Fifth which was an homage to Mozart in tone. Not being a regular classical music listener, I assumed from the liner notes that it was a composition for the cognoscenti as the symphony was likely never performed in Mozart's lifetime. He had fallen out of favour by that time.
Within the first phrase, I realized it wasn't obscure at all. The man next to me liked the performance but it wasn't "ovation worthy". But the horns were certainly better than "last night's atrocious playing". I didn't stay for the Schubert as I was ready to go to bed. You know you're getting decrepit when you can't even stay up longer than the grey-haired set for a classical recital.
