La Dolce Villa

The Spadina end of Harbord St. has numerous well-reviewed restaurants from Splendido to Yasu. The Ossington section, not so much. But camouflaged by trees and vines, a little Italian restaurant called Terrazza has been operating there for several years. Thursday evening, after listening to Belle Starr, I headed over to check out this hidden gem. The inside resembled some English parlour with dark wood tables, a fire place, and plushy sofa seats. The main draw was the small "terrace", slightly above the street at about head level, but covered with plants and grape vines.

My appetizer of mussels in tomato sauce ($11) came out in a steaming bowl. It was a large portion with close to 30 mussels. The marine flavour of these shellfish balanced nicely with the tangy sauce. I was feeling already full once I cleaned out the dish. The chicken penne ($16) wasn't quite as good. The pasta was al dente but the chicken was bland. It would have been better grilled or tossed with some herbs.The creamy goat-cheese sauce was a little too heavy, especially in combination with the amount of food. The entrée was acceptable, but there wasn't an inspired touch that woke up the senses. The pleasant airy space, laid-back atmosphere, and generous portion, they make this restaurant a good neighbourhood spot but not a destination experience.